92 yamaha waverunner III

[hvacdude]

Hello out there. I am new to this forum as well as semi new to riding waverunners & skis. Tired of riding on friends i recently purchased my own waverunner. Totally cleaned this thing up & made minor repairs & i was out & about having a great time. Well then it wouldnt start. Come to find out that there is no spark from the plugs. I diagnose hvac systems by trade so am very handy with a meter, tracing out circuits, testing switches & such. Without a diagram or any manuals i was able to form a visual schematic to an extent. The function of the CDI i am unsure of as well as how to diagnose it. I am 100% sure the ignition coil is ok & the plug cables. Can anyone please assist me in diagnosing this issue or refer me to an online manual in a pdf format or any online manual? if so please email me @ dbp1979@comcast.net .... or respond to me here on this post.. I so wanna get these last few weekends of weather to have fun on it. Thanks in advance !!!!!!

[hvacdude]

because of my inpatience i read previous posts & http://www.pwctoday.com/showthread.p...ster+electrics ..... had the answer i was looking for .. problem solved ..---> thanks ...... now where do i order new switches from ?

[pascilla72]

Go to www.riveyamaha.com...you can order all kinds of parts and they have the OEM schematics section which is of great use.

[hvacdude]

was that link for a site ? i got an error .. although i found other sites from that page .. any idea ? thanks lol

[pascilla72]

www.rivayamaha.com

OEM Parts Section. All the schematics you could ever want.

[Bamajeep]

Exact same thing happened to mine, so I unplugged the kill switch and fired it right up. I just cleaned the contacts and don't have any problems for now. I am looking to replace the kill switch this winter just incase. It might work for ya.

[bullraider]

Just to let all know...you can order JUST .the green switch or just the red switch....a lot of people think you have to get the whole controll.........

[fox river pwc]

1. Leave your killswitch unplugged and set your low idle low enough to kill the engine when you let off the throttle. You still need a ziptie on the post to start it, but after that, your free to play like usual with no worries about falling off and your ski putting away

If you choose this option, and your throttle return spring ever breaks - which DOES happen from time to time, then either:

1) If you don't fall off the ski, it will run at WOT - not 1 tiny bit less - and you will have no easy way to shut off the ski quickly. You'll have to either wait for it to run out of gas completely, turn the fuel pet**** off and wait for the fuel line to run out of gas, pull the choke cable (unless you have a primer) and hope to kill the motor quickly (bear in mind it will be running wide open as you're reaching with one hand for the choke), or attempt to open the hood (while riding at WOT) and kill the motor by yanking the plug wires. Good luck with that. Better hope your brain works faster than panic sets in, when your ski suddenly goes wide open when you least expect it - oh, and just pray it doesn't happen when somebody else, like a buddy or a family member, is riding your ski.

OR

2) If you fall off the ski, it will run at WOT - not 1 tiny bit less - until the ski crashes into shore, or another boat, or a pier, or a person, or who knows what else. Everyone else nearby better hope for good luck with that.


Long story short, there's a very simple reason why tech inspections for racing, and Coast Guard inspections, require a FUNCTIONAL lanyard and kill switch. It's because disabling your ski's means of shutting it off can have DEADLY consequences. DON'T do it.

In my 16 years of riding, I've personally experienced 2 broken throttle return springs. One of them was on a ski that was just over 2 years old - freshwater only - so it wasn't due to obvious lack of maintenance. Both times, it happened while riding my stand-ups very aggressively - and took me completely by surprise. One time, I hung on, hit the kill switch, then rigged a zip tie to limit throttle travel so I could get home safely. The other time, I fell in, and thankfully was able to yank off my lanyard to prevent an accident.

Please don't listen to suggestions to disable your lanyard with a zip tie, or your kill switch by unplugging it. If you do this, and God forbid, kill or injure yourself or someone else, then we'll end up posting about what a cheap-a-s-s ******* you were for not fixing your ski correctly in the first place...

[hvacdude]

thanks everyone .. i appreciated all of your input ... i traced the wire (black) which is grounded ... it shorts out CDI not allowing it to start ... odd thing is .. after it starts i can twist wires back together & use my kill switch & lanyard as need be ... i will order all new switches after season as they have resistance readings whch for any switch is bad .. for now im gonna use a toggle switch for my short dilemma which is A ok at least today it ran great

[rkd]

I thought I had a problem with the kill switch on my old 91, but cleaning the carb fixed the hard starting issue at least twice. Or the kill switch fixed itself.

Regardless of it being somewhat risky to disable the kill switch, its nice to know how and what that does.

At least on an older one with a gas switch, it would be easy to turn off the gas, but not on the new, computerized ones....The new one should shut off with the tip over switch shouldn't it?