****PWC Winterization Tips****
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  1. #1
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    ****PWC Winterization Tips****

    Hi everyone! Well, the time is coming close for those who live in colder climates to winterize their skis and put them away 'til next season....bummer.

    Here's some tips, proceedures and help for those do-it-yourselfers!

    ***IMPORTANT NOTE***

    If your ski is new, READ YOUR WARRANTY PAPERS!!! There are some dealers that require THEM to winterize your ski in order to honor the warranty. If something happens that the warranty would cover and they didn't do the winterizing, the warranty could be void...so read it carefully!

    After the warranty check.......it's on to getting it done!

    General How-tos...

    From JazzMotorsports

    PWC Winterization

    1. Pull the drain plugs and remove all water from the hull. At this point you may also want to wash your engine compartment and outer hull. Make sure to get ALL the water out of the hull. Any water left inside the engine compartment will cause condensation and corrosion on your engine.
    2. If you ride in salt water. Flush your watercrafts cooling system with Salt-Away. This prevents internal engine corrosion.
    3. Add Sta-Bil Fuel Stabilizer to your watercrafts fuel tank.
    4. Fog the engine with marine grade engine fogging oil. Start the engine and spray the fogging oil into the carburetor. Running the engine at this point will also circulate the stabilized fuel into the fuel lines and carburetors. Fog for 10-15 seconds and shut the engine down. Turn your fuel switch to the OFF position.
    5. Remove the driveline cover and grease all fittings on the driveline with a grease gun. Re-install your driveline cover.
    6. If you own a Sea-Doo, now is the time to change your pump oil. It is better to do when winterizing rather than in the spring. If any water has entered the pump oil you don t want it sitting in there all winter and ruining your pump bearings. To do this, disconnect your steering cable, trim cable, and reverse cable. Next remove the steering and exit nozzles. Then remove the pump cone. Let all of the old oil drain out. Reinstall the pump cone (make sure to inspect the O-ring and seal it with Loctite 518 or equivalent). Refill the pump cone through the filler hole (set screw) with Sea-Doo Pump Oil or equivalent synthetic gear lube.
    7. At this point, if you store your area where the temperature will drop below freezing, add 50/50 water-antifreeze mix to the cooling system. Disconnect the water in-line from the cylinder head. Connect a hose with a funnel on the other end. Pour in antifreeze until it comes out the outlet of the cooling system. Make sure the antifreeze you use is aluminum safe. Most newer antifreeze brands are.
    8. Lube all of your cables, spray down your pump, and lube your steering system with silicon spray lube.
    9. Spray down your engine with silicon spray lube. A light coating is all you need to protect it from corrosion.
    10. Make any notes of problems that should be addressed before you go riding next spring.
    Skipper: Kowalski, analysis.
    Kowalski: I'm picking up good vibrations.

    **The information obtained in my hurricane thread is courtesy of NOAA, National Hurricane Center and National Weather Service.**
    Liquid Militia*****K38 Water Safety*****

  2. #2
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    Re: ****PWC Winterization Tips****

    Specifically for SeaDoos...

    From The Boat Guy

    Procedure for Winterization.

    Winterization is necessary in colder climates, where freezing is possible. If you are in a warm climate, and your ski is going to be stored for a long period, you should also consider this procedure.
    The following procedure is for the older models (657, 587 engine), but may also apply to the newer skis (787, 947). Iíll be updating it soon so it properly covers most models. If you arenít sure about this procedure, consult the service manual for your year ski to make sure the following procedure will work for you.

    Tools needed:

    Flat screwdriver
    Wire cutters, or knife
    Medium size funnel
    Hose Pincher (Sea Doo p/n 295000076)

    Parts needed:

    1 gallon - Antifreeze mix (50/50 or as recommended)
    Sea doo Lube (p/n 293-600-016)
    Flush hose
    Fuel Stabilizer (p/n 413-408-600)

    Procedure:

    1. Estimate the quantity of fuel in your tank, and add Fuel Stabilizer as recommended in the directions on the container.

    2. Remove the air silencer cover on top of the carb(s)(black plastic on newer skis, blue alum. on older ones).

    3. Attach the flush fitting to the connector on the ski, and start the engine. Immediately turn water on, and bring engine up to approx. 3000 rpm (half throttle). Spray Sea Doo Lube into the carb opening(s) for 30 sec., then shut fuel valve off. Continue to spray Lube for another 30 sec. As engine starts to die, make sure to turn water off immediately, to avoid engine damage. (reminder - never run engine longer than 5 minutes, or jet pump bearing damage will occur).

    4. Remove the spark plugs, placing the plug wires on the grounding terminals, and spray some Sea Doo Lube into the cylinders. Crank the engine over a few revs to distribute the Lube onto the cylinders. Reinstall spark plugs.

    5. Jet pump oil should be changed at this point. See the Pump Oil Change section.

    6. Seal (if your ski has the type which requires lubrication) and PTO should be greased (this procedure is on the way).

    7. Locate the main water lines where they attach to the jet pump and exhaust fitting. The inlet hose runs from the pump and splits into two hoses and connects to the pipe on most models. The outlet hose typically runs from the head to the exhaust fitting. The third hose is a drain hose (clear, usually) that runs from under the exhaust manifold to the exhaust fitting on most models. Remove these hoses where they connect to the pump and the exhaust outlet at the rear of the engine compartment. Tie these hoses so that the ends are above the top of the engine.

    8. On the water inlet hose, follow it to the pipe and note where it splits and connects in two places. Install a hose pincher on the smaller hose that connects under the pipe (closest hose to engine). This keeps antifreeze from entering the cylinders, so donít skip this step !

    9. Locate the water inlet hose (the one that was connected to pump), and insert the funnel into the end of it. Pour antifreeze mix into the funnel slowly until you can see antifreeze mix rise above the top of the engine in clear hose.

    10. Leave these lines tied for the winter (if they are reattached, the mix will drain out).

    11. An additional procedure that is recommended, is to drain the muffler (located behind the pipe). this involves removing the inlet and outlet exhaust hoses. Next, you need to remove the tie-down strap. Remove the muffler, and pour out any water. Reinstall the muffler in the reverse order.

    12. Drain and dry the engine compartment thoroughly. Wipe any remaining water off the engine, and spray engine, and any exposed metal parts with Sea Doo Lube. Be sure to spray the carb and cable attachments.
    Skipper: Kowalski, analysis.
    Kowalski: I'm picking up good vibrations.

    **The information obtained in my hurricane thread is courtesy of NOAA, National Hurricane Center and National Weather Service.**
    Liquid Militia*****K38 Water Safety*****

  3. #3
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    Re: ****PWC Winterization Tips****

    SeaDoo Pump Oil Change Proceedures

    From The Boat Guy

    Procedure for jet pump oil change.

    Changing jet pump oil in a Sea Doo should be done every 50 hours of use. Dirty or low oil will cause premature bearing failure (usually at the farthest point from land !). This procedure is fairly simple, requiring no specialized tools. The only part that may get tricky is on certain newer pumps with the new style pusher. The procedure for installing that type cone is coming soon. Lets get started !

    Tools needed:

    13 mm socket with ratchet and 10" extension (or longest you have)
    2 - 10 mm wrench
    allen wrench
    8 mm socket with ratchet and extension
    Needle nose pliers
    Sea Doo jet pump oil
    Loctite or similar Blue Thread retaining compound
    Anti-seize compound
    Pan to catch old oil (a pie pan works good)

    Removal:

    1. Remove steering cable at connection to the nozzle, using 10 mm wrenches. If working on a GTS/GTI/GTX, remove 2 large springs (using needle nose pliers) and reverse cable at the connection to the reverse water deflector (you will have to place ski in reverse to remove bolt). If working on a ski with trim, remove trim connections.

    2. Using 13 mm ratchet, remove 4 bolts attaching nozzle to pump, and remove nozzle, being careful to catch 2 o-rings at the top (newer models don't have these).

    3. Using allen wrench, remove plug located on top of the center cone.

    4. Remove 3 8mm cone attachment bolts. Place the pan under cone. Lightly tap the tip of the cone to loosen it. When cone comes off, oil should run out (if no oil present, you have problems!). Check to see that no metallic particles are present in the old oil (use a magnet, if you have one). If any metallic particles are present, service of jet pump will be necessary.

    5. Grab the shaft (it has 2 flat spots) and try to move up and down. If there is any movement greater than .05 mm, the jet pump should be rebuilt.

    6. Check the o-ring located on the cone for any flat spots or tears. If it appears loose or damaged, replace with a new one.

    7. Using paper towels or a rag, wipe off old oil from shaft and inside of cone. Also make sure no oil remains on cone and jet pump mating surfaces. If available, use a solvent to clean these surfaces.

    8. Apply a light coating of Loctite 518 sealer to the o-ring and install it in the groove of the cone. Next, apply Loctite 518 sealer to the pump at the mating surface of the cone.

    9. If your pump utilizes a pusher, there are several styles and youíll need to reinstall pusher parts into cone properly then install cone carefully to insure that pusher is working properly.
    On the newer style cones that utilize a 3 piece pusher (see picture below), youíll need to insert a pencil or plastic pin into the oil fill to depress the tab and release pressure on the pusher. Then install cone and remove pencil. On this type system, after installing the cone bolts, you need to make sure the pump turns freely. You can do this by removing the grey PTO (engine flywheel) cover and rotate the engine by hand. If the pump feels tight, you may have to remove the cone and repeat installation procedure.
    Go here for a .pdf description of proper installation of the 3 piece pusher.

    10. Replace cone onto jet pump, making sure fill opening is on top and making sure that o-ring remains in cone groove. Apply Blue thread locking compound to threads of 8mm bolts and install. Torque to 7 N m (62 lb in) for aluminum pump, 4 N M (35 lb in) for plastic pump.

    11. Add oil to fill opening until it reaches top. Lightly tap the sides of the cone to release any air (you may also wait a few minutes for excess air to come out). Repeat until oil is level with lower threads at fill opening and no more air escapes.

    12. Apply anti-seize to the fill plug on aluminum/bronze cones and pipe sealant on plastic cones and install stainless plug.

    13. Apply anti-seize to the 4 13mm bolts. If your model had the 2 o-rings, you need to stick them to the nozzle. This is accomplished using some grease. Apply grease to the o-rings, and place them in the 2 pockets on the top of the nozzle. Carefully install nozzle, and torque 4 bolts to 25 N m (18 lb ft) for aluminum pump, 21 N m (16 lb ft) for plastic pump.

    14. Attach cables, springs, and connections in the reverse order that they were removed.
    Skipper: Kowalski, analysis.
    Kowalski: I'm picking up good vibrations.

    **The information obtained in my hurricane thread is courtesy of NOAA, National Hurricane Center and National Weather Service.**
    Liquid Militia*****K38 Water Safety*****

  4. #4
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    Re: ****PWC Winterization Tips****

    Here's a couple link that have pretty much the same information but in a little more detail. There might be something there that may not be listed in the above information as well...check them out..

    PWC Winterization: By JetCaptnKirk on Shawn Alladio K38

    PWC Winterization: Foremost Boaters

    PWC Winterization: By Josh Burns, quoted from PWI.

    Hope this helps everyone!!

    Captn---
    Skipper: Kowalski, analysis.
    Kowalski: I'm picking up good vibrations.

    **The information obtained in my hurricane thread is courtesy of NOAA, National Hurricane Center and National Weather Service.**
    Liquid Militia*****K38 Water Safety*****

  5. #5
    Top Dog ariess10's Avatar
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    Re: ****PWC Winterization Tips****

    i thought u wanted aint freeze to get into the cylinders?
    may the wind always be at your back !


    2004 seadoo xp di

    1998 seadoo xp limited

  6. #6
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home WFO Speedracer's Avatar
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    Re: ****PWC Winterization Tips****

    Hmmmmmmm Wouldnt It Be A Lot Easier To Just Pour Straight Antifreeze Into The Engine And Let It Mix With The Water In The Block,second Once You Do This Does It Really Matter If It Runs Back Out Or Not And Thirdly ,why Not Just Take The Outlet Hose On The Waterbox Loose And Pour Some Antifreeze In It?
    Y'all know me, still the same O.G. but I been low-key
    hated on by most these &^$$@s with no cheese, no deals and no G's, no wheels and no keys, no boats, no snowmobiles, and no skis, mad at me cause I can finally afford to provide my family with groceries

    WWSRD , What would Speed Racer do ?

  7. #7
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home puckoach's Avatar
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    Re: ****PWC Winterization Tips****

    I copied and pasted this from my post on the Kawi string.

    Put the fuel stabilizer in the gas tank, then fill the tank at the gas station.

    I personally believe it is almost impossible to get every drop of water out. So, I do use the RV anti freeze. ( I have one of those run in jugs. But, you can make one out of a 5 gallon bucket. ) I feel the objective is to get whatever liquid left in there to be the pink stuff, rather than water. But, I want to get as much of the pink stuff out as possible too !

    I park the trailer on a hill, nose up. Then tip the nose as high as allowed, to run the water out. Cool the craft. Then I repeat the process with the pink stuff.

    I learned this tip up trick, by taking my first pwc to the dealer for it's initial winterization.

    As for the fogging oil. It's much more important for 2 strokes, than 4 strokes. Spray some into the air box as you are running the pink stuff in.

    After you level it off. Take the pluggs out, and spray some into each hole. Using a few cranks. Don't overload this on a 4 stroke.

    For a Kawi 12 F or 15 F, the trick to get at the oil filter with your hand, is to stand facing the front of the craft, with your right leg in the left side foot well. I actually kneel in the foot well. Then you can snake your right hand/arm in pretty easy.

    As to oil extractor, the Top Sider available from Boat US is the better choice. Cheaper than the Oil Boy, and does an equal, if not better job.

    If you ride in the ocean, it's a good idea to spray the interior with CRC Super Rust Inhibitor. Unlike WD 40, it's formulated so that it will not damage rubber. I spray the intake/pump/cone as well.

    Leave a wedge in the seat, so that air can get in. Fill the openings so that air can get in, and critters won't. (Friend of mine just replaced his pipe with somone else's, and had a mouse amusement park ride when he started it up !)

    Check your instructions for how to off season handle your battery. It's not all the same. Plus, a low amp charger is not a "tender". When I am supposed to keep a charge up, I prefer a "timer".

    If you can, jack the trailer up on blocks/stands, so that there is no weight on the tires.

    Of course, refer to the manual for your brand of pwc for other, or contrary instructions.

  8. #8
    PWCToday Newbie skootz's Avatar
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    Re: ****PWC Winterization Tips****

    Good stuff. I'll probably doing that this weekend
    98' GP1200

  9. #9
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    Re: ****PWC Winterization Tips****

    Hey wedoseadoo, you dont even live where it "hard" freezes, and don't you know that straight antifreeze has no protection? Leave the "winterization" to us that do thousands of skis in the frigid -50 degree climate. Didn't mean to sound so harsh but man.......

  10. #10
    Top Dog ariess10's Avatar
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    Re: ****PWC Winterization Tips****

    Ok now im lost
    may the wind always be at your back !


    2004 seadoo xp di

    1998 seadoo xp limited

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