about done with this thing 96xp
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  1. #1
    PWCToday Regular
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    about done with this thing 96xp

    got fed up with carbs, couldn't get one to pop off. couldn't figure it out, so i ordered brand new carbs.

    These have the accel pump on them. So i followed directions and went 1 1/2 turns on low screw. left high alone

    couldn't get fuel. wasted 2 days trying to figure out what that was about. hooked up a fuel pump at carb end. Some fuel then no fuel, some fuel then no fuel. pulled sending unit, swapped with parts ski, same thing. finally found out it was the brand new selector valve leaking air. pry didn't need it but i thought as long as everything else was new might as well change the valve. ok stole valve off parts ski.

    couldn't keep it running, started running away on its own. lots of smoke.

    wouldn't fire, wouldn't fire, plugs keep getting saturated. out of the blue it fires after trying a spark testor. seems to run, then on one cylinder....

    put new plugs in, cranked for 3 or 4 seconds, pto side full of oil. So another new problem after fixing the other 10, it just keeps going...

    even if one of the oil lines is plugged or pinched is there really enough oil coming in now into only one cylinder in a few seconds to keep it from firing??

    driving me nuts, going on 2 years of problems like this.....

    and my parts ski has the rebuilt motor, that wont run either......
    1996 Seadoo XP stock

  2. #2
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home wmazz's Avatar
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    Re: about done with this thing 96xp

    Sounds like a few common problems, and some BS.



    Bill M.

    Are you a SD mechanic?
    Last edited by wmazz; 07-14-2022 at 10:50 PM.
    Horsepower == Speed, RPM != Speed



  3. #3
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home Myself's Avatar
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    Re: about done with this thing 96xp

    And people wonder why I tell them it's going to be $800-$1000 to fix their old Seadoo that's been sitting LOL!

    You're inner crank seals have shrunken and are seeping the 2 stroke oil into the crankcase. There are two 1/2" lines on your engine going to the oil tank. One comes from the right side lower part of the oil tank and goes down under the intake (RV gear supply). The other comes from down under the exhaust and goes up to a fitting on top of the oil tank (RV return). As a hail Mary, you can unhook these from the 2 stroke oil tank and loop them to each other. And add thick lube like motor honey to the looped lines. MAYBE it will stay in the RV cavity like it's supposed to and allow you to run the engine.
    http://www.facebook.com/twinlakesjetskirepair

    '89 Kawi 650SX 42.4 GPS
    +3" stock pipe, ported ex. manifold, drilled waterbox, blueprinted pump, Ocean Pro ride plate

    '99 Yama GP1200 65U 61.8 GPS
    ported cylinders, matched cases, milled head, blueprinted pump, long ride plate

    '96 Seadoo HX 717 53.13 GPS
    light porting, massaged cases, lightened flywheel, port matched manifolds, Rossier pipe, stubby pump cone

  4. #4
    PWCToday Regular
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    Re: about done with this thing 96xp

    Quote Originally Posted by Myself View Post
    And people wonder why I tell them it's going to be $800-$1000 to fix their old Seadoo that's been sitting LOL!

    You're inner crank seals have shrunken and are seeping the 2 stroke oil into the crankcase. There are two 1/2" lines on your engine going to the oil tank. One comes from the right side lower part of the oil tank and goes down under the intake (RV gear supply). The other comes from down under the exhaust and goes up to a fitting on top of the oil tank (RV return). As a hail Mary, you can unhook these from the 2 stroke oil tank and loop them to each other. And add thick lube like motor honey to the looped lines. MAYBE it will stay in the RV cavity like it's supposed to and allow you to run the engine.
    was afraid of that answer.....was hoping it was the oil injection issue.....

    I must have forgotten about a return line there, i knew about the feed for the crank......

    so rip apart the rebuilt motor with new crank and use that or just put new seals into this one?

    does the thick oil thing really work?? i guess i have this new crank sitting here if it dont lol I dont know what motor honey is, gear oil?
    Last edited by Jodean; 07-15-2022 at 04:07 PM.
    1996 Seadoo XP stock

  5. #5
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home Myself's Avatar
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    Re: about done with this thing 96xp

    My son's 96 xp has been looped with gear oil for about 5 years now. Might as well try it.
    http://www.facebook.com/twinlakesjetskirepair

    '89 Kawi 650SX 42.4 GPS
    +3" stock pipe, ported ex. manifold, drilled waterbox, blueprinted pump, Ocean Pro ride plate

    '99 Yama GP1200 65U 61.8 GPS
    ported cylinders, matched cases, milled head, blueprinted pump, long ride plate

    '96 Seadoo HX 717 53.13 GPS
    light porting, massaged cases, lightened flywheel, port matched manifolds, Rossier pipe, stubby pump cone

  6. #6
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    Re: about done with this thing 96xp

    Quote Originally Posted by Myself View Post
    My son's 96 xp has been looped with gear oil for about 5 years now. Might as well try it.
    no kidding? ok will do. 80w90 or 75w140?
    1996 Seadoo XP stock

  7. #7
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home Myself's Avatar
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    Re: about done with this thing 96xp

    The thicker the better!
    http://www.facebook.com/twinlakesjetskirepair

    '89 Kawi 650SX 42.4 GPS
    +3" stock pipe, ported ex. manifold, drilled waterbox, blueprinted pump, Ocean Pro ride plate

    '99 Yama GP1200 65U 61.8 GPS
    ported cylinders, matched cases, milled head, blueprinted pump, long ride plate

    '96 Seadoo HX 717 53.13 GPS
    light porting, massaged cases, lightened flywheel, port matched manifolds, Rossier pipe, stubby pump cone

  8. #8
    Frequent Poster rotarypower101's Avatar
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    Re: about done with this thing 96xp

    Quote Originally Posted by Myself View Post
    You're inner crank seals have shrunken and are seeping the 2 stroke oil into the crankcase. There are two 1/2" lines on your engine going to the oil tank.
    Are there any tricks to repair the crank seals leaking over time?

    Short of replacement of the crank or pressing it apart with new seals, are there any tricks that work to presumably soften the seals allowing them to create a positive seal on the oil bath? Possibly solvents or products that restore sealing surfaces?

    Are there any known reasons the crank oil seals go bad other than physical damage? Time, age, being dry for a extended amount of time?

    Have 2 identical 787 99SPX, but one of them will leak down oil into the combustion chamber after an extended amount of time, would love to try and cure it without a new crank and tearing it apart.
    Last edited by rotarypower101; 07-17-2022 at 01:47 PM.

  9. #9
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home Myself's Avatar
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    Re: about done with this thing 96xp

    I've 'bandaided' many Seadoos by looping the RV lines to each other. Most times I will add an ounce of oil stop leak......the kind that swells seals...to the cavity. Then fill with something like synthetic 75w140 gear lube.

    My thought is that the rubber simply shrinks with age. I'm sure certain additives in some 2 stroke oils quicken the process. Also, the return line IS long enough to reach the supply fitting and then some. Then loop the supply line back up top of the tank to the return fitting. Then the tank and oil injection system can stay intact and work like factory.
    http://www.facebook.com/twinlakesjetskirepair

    '89 Kawi 650SX 42.4 GPS
    +3" stock pipe, ported ex. manifold, drilled waterbox, blueprinted pump, Ocean Pro ride plate

    '99 Yama GP1200 65U 61.8 GPS
    ported cylinders, matched cases, milled head, blueprinted pump, long ride plate

    '96 Seadoo HX 717 53.13 GPS
    light porting, massaged cases, lightened flywheel, port matched manifolds, Rossier pipe, stubby pump cone

  10. #10
    Frequent Poster rotarypower101's Avatar
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    Portland/Mt Hood Oregon
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    Re: about done with this thing 96xp

    Quote Originally Posted by Myself View Post
    I've 'bandaided' many Seadoos by looping the RV lines to each other. Most times I will add an ounce of oil stop leak......the kind that swells seals...to the cavity. Then fill with something like synthetic 75w140 gear lube.

    My thought is that the rubber simply shrinks with age. I'm sure certain additives in some 2 stroke oils quicken the process. Also, the return line IS long enough to reach the supply fitting and then some. Then loop the supply line back up top of the tank to the return fitting. Then the tank and oil injection system can stay intact and work like factory.
    Do you find the higher viscosity oil doesn't leak into the combustion compartments? How do you know it has oil in there at any later point in time? What kind of service interval do you use to check its level, or top it back up?

    I assume if the seals are not operating properly it also allows the bath oil to be sucked in depleting the bath compartment and counterbalance shaft?


    I have a somewhat silly solution to deal with it currently, I run a 3 way valve that allows me to operate normally, as well as on a specific setting to block off the feed and pump the oil from the crank case back into the oil reservoir tank... It works, but I would really like to either find a fix or repair so there is less interaction or things that could be fouled up from mistakes.

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