Another 1100 STX DI "No Spark" - Page 2
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  1. #11
    PWCToday Newbie
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    Re: Another 1100 STX DI "No Spark"

    Quote Originally Posted by WFO Speedracer View Post
    I have a spare 1100 DI engine here, it was running when pulled, salt water boat and it had serious wiring harness issues, I should have a good injector on it if you need one.Honestly I was planning on converting this engine to carbs and replacng the pistons, head, stator and intake so I won't be needing the injectors.
    Sent you a PM for more info.

  2. #12
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    Re: Another 1100 STX DI "No Spark"

    Ordered an aftermarket Fuel pump from eBay for around $40 that was listed to work with my '00 1100 STX DI. I report back for others if I have any issues with the amp draw on this unit, but figured I'd take the risk at only $40.

    While I'm waiting to receive my new CPS and try to track down a used injector, I'm trying to get the fuel system in order. I cleaned the tank as good as possible without removing by siphoning out the bad gas then using rags to get out that last bits. I used one of those spring-loaded grabber tools to put the dry rag into the tank, push it around, and pull it out through the fuel pump opening.

    Once the old fuel was removed, the bottom of my tank was coated in a nasty sludge mixed with what remained of the old pump screen filter. This stuff was like tar - sticky and ruined anything it got on. I dumped a couple ounces of isopropyl alcohol into the tank to dissolve this gunk. I did it a few times and let it sit overnight. Once the clear alcohol would turn brown, I know it had done it's job and removed it using paper towels dripped into the tank and then rescued via the grabber tool. This worked great as I was able to push the paper towels around in the tank and get some additional residue off. Tank is now in good shape and ready for good, clean fuel.

    I put a good cleaning on the fuel sending unit. I removed the c-clips so I could get access to the copper shaft and sanded the shaft lightly with 600 grit to remove built up residue from the tank. I then put the c-clips back on and put the unit into a gallon jug of isopropyl alcohol to 1) see if the floats all floated (they did) and 2) to try to dissolved any residue I couldn't reach (ie, inside the floats). After leaving for an hour or so, I plugged the sending unit back into the wiring connector and turned the key - still read empty. I slowly pulled the sending unit in and out of the alcohol jug to see if I could get any reading on the display - nothing. Pulled it out and checked the resistance while lifting the floats up and down - never saw anything other than 7.8-7.9 ohms. From what I've read, this thing should decrease in ohms when each float floats and read 0 ohms when all floats are floating. So I've got a bad sending unit that apparently is unfixable. Anyone had any success bringing a sending unit with my symptoms back from the dead? Or have a working fuel sending unit OR a sending unit that registers proper resistance, but has bad floats ( I will swap my good floats out on it). Off to eBay to see if I can find a used one.

  3. #13
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    Re: Another 1100 STX DI "No Spark"

    While I'm waiting on my replacement injector to arrive, I wanted to add a few details I've found since my last post that may be helpful for my injector replacement.

    From what I'm reading, each injector from Ficht has a unique flow character. The EMM is programmed with these values (called coefficients) from the factory, so when you need to replace an injector (as I do), you have to do a couple of things:

    1) find the coefficient values for your new injector - these are encoded in a DataMatrix barcode printed on the injector label. IF you can decode this barcode, you have the injector coefficients and can proceed to the next step. The challenge is that earlier Ficht injectors used an older version of these DataMatrix barcodes (known as ECC 140) and it's difficult to find anything that will read/decode them. In later years, I want to say around 2002, Ficht changed to the more modern format, ECC 220. A lot of different iPhone/Android apps can decode ECC 220, but none that I can find can decode ECC 140. After some searching, I discovered that an older usb hand scanner made by Honeywell (model 4800i) can read these ECC 140 codes.

    2) Enter your new injector coefficient values into your EMM - this can theoretically be done with KADIAG (I think), but I've never been able to get that section of the software to work with my machine - always get "need to update software" errors. Over on the greenhulk.net forums, I ran across an updated piece of windows software that will do just this called, Ghost Installations (found here). Ghost Installations runs on Windows 10 and works easily with my usb-to-serial adapter. Once powered up, you can see the injector coefficients and change them easier (haven't tried, yet, but I've heard).

    Here's my plan:

    - receive the injector
    - find a way to decode the barcode
    - install the injector
    - enter the new injector coefficients into the EMM
    - cross my fingers and hope she fires

  4. #14
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    Re: Another 1100 STX DI "No Spark"

    I can scan your barcode from a photo, with my Honeywell scanner

    It's important to note that the CEN and MAG injectors are swapped when using the ghost installations tool on a Kawasaki EMM.
    FICHT EMM Repairs (Polaris, Kawasaki, Tigershark)
    http://lakesidetech.biz/
    http://fb.me/lakesidetech1
    http://fichtemmrepairs.com

  5. #15
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    Re: Another 1100 STX DI "No Spark"

    New (used) injector came in and I installed it. Still no spark. Rechecked my stator voltage while cranking - 12.1V on 2 windings and 8.7ish on the other 3. I checked the 45V bus through the KADIAG communication port while cranking and was only getting around 7V to the system.

    I emailed Hiperco (Darrin Weiss from Lakeside Tech) these specs and after agreeing that it sounded like something was wrong with the voltage regulator in the EMM. So I sent away my EMM to Lakeside and waiting to hear back.

    Talked to Darrin today only to find out that my EMM checks out - bench tested good and started and ran his machine in his shop perfectly. He even tested it all a second time for me before shipping it back to me. While I had Darrin on the phone, I picked his brain about other potential issues.

    Here's what I'm going to try when my EMM returns next week:

    - Recheck the stator voltages to verify it's putting out the correct juice

    - check the polarity of each winding on the stator as Darrin said that the EMM needs the proper polarity on it's pins and when testing the winding pairs with the multimeter it's possible that I could be getting a proper reading though the polarity of the wires could be messed up. Darrin noted it was a long shot, but he has had a Polaris client who had an issue with the wires being switched up at some point

    - test the new CPS while cranking to make sure it's putting out proper voltage

    - retest the 45V bus voltage while cranking

    I'll report back soon with results and hopefully some good news, but I can't express how impressed I'm been with Darrin at Lakeside. He's the real deal - helpful, knowledgable, and truly rooting for guys like me to get our machines back up and running. Reach out to him if you think you're EMM may be bad - even if it's not, his insight will save you time and $$.

  6. #16
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    Re: Another 1100 STX DI "No Spark"

    EMM is back. Unfortunately, I didn't have the typical "I threw it in and it fired right up" experience, but since Lakeside Tech said it passed all tests, I expected to have other issues remaining. My focus is on the stator. Here's why:

    - voltage at 45v pin on KADIAG harness was only reading 7v at cranking, BUT
    - EMM checked out and passed all tests (bench + boat)
    - All major systems tested out as well (injectors & ignition system can be fired via KADIAG)
    - CPS has been replaced

    So, I've narrowed down my issue to being low voltage. I assume the 7v (supposed to read around 20v at cranking and 45v when running) isn't enough to power the EMM and certainly isn't enough to fire injectors.

    Talking to Darrin at Lakeside, he mentioned that he had a client once that had the polarity on some of the stator windings mixed up. He mentioned that the EMM needs the polarity to be correct to "stack" the windings at cranking for max voltage.

    Not being sure how to test polarity (voltage test on these is simply to measure the pairs of wires with no mention of - or +), I simply grabbed the wires from the first winding (pins 1 & 12) on the 12pin stator connector and swapped them and reconnected to the EMM.

    I tested the cranking voltage at the KADIAG port and now saw 20v! Feeling pretty good that I was going to get my first "spark" now, I put the KADIAG port cap back on and pushed the magic green button. SPARK.

    The engine tried it hardest to run, but would only idle for a few seconds and then die - not even enough time to turn the water on. Tons of smoke coming out of the exhaust.

    Reading more about the stator/EMM functions at cranking & starting in the service manual, I read that the EMM "stacks" all 5 windings to maximize voltage at cranking and then at around 500rpm, the EMM opens a switch to isolate the 12v (charging) windings from the 45v (injector & ignition) windings. My gut was that when I fired the ski I had the voltage to run the injectors/ignition (due to this stacking of windings), but soon after start when the windings were separated by the EMM, I then lacked the proper voltage to keep running the injectors/ignition.

    To test this, before cranking, I removed the wiring connector from one of the injectors hoping that the lower power need of only 2 injectors compared the the full 3 would allow the ski to run. It did. With only 2 injectors connected, the ski started and idled (roughly).

    Now I had confirmed that something wasn't quite right with my stator. I pulled the stator connector and rechecked voltages while cranking and re-checked the resistances of all windings. On both tests, my final 45v winding (pins 5 & 8) results didn't look quite right. The voltage on this windings was a volt less that the other two 45v windings and the resistance measurement was just barely out of specs (the others were in spec).

    When I had first purchased this 1100 stx di, the previous owner told me that he had narrowed down the no-spark issue to the stator and even included a replacement stator in the sale. The first thing I did when I got the ski home was replace the stator with the spare I was given. Since I replaced the stator, I have found a faulty CPS, a shorted injector, and a bad fuel pump. Clearly the issue I inherited wasn't the stator, and I wondered if the original stator was good.

    Having to remove the stator cover anyway because the ski came to without the stator cover o-ring and I needed to replace that anyway, I pulled the stator cover (tough job, takes some patience, and my hands are all cut up, but not terrible) to add the o-ring and replaced the stator with the original. I also checked the flush lines for obstructions and anything else I could inspect while I had the cover out of the hull.

    I put it all back together and the things fired up on the first push...and the second...and the third. I pulled it out of the garage onto the driveway to put some water through it and let it idle for a while. As I let it run - hoping to run through the 4-5 years of bad fuel/oil residue - it slowly got smoother. Since I had had so much trouble with the stator, I checked the voltage at the battery while running to see the stator was charging the battery - 13.3 volts - charging perfectly.\

    So, my "non-running" 2000 Kawasaki STX DI is now a running 2000 Kawasaki STX DI. Lots of work, but surprisingly not as much money as I expected to get this thing up and running. These machines are more complex than necessary, but when you learn more about how the system works, it becomes easier and less intimidating to isolate the issues. Risking sounding like a broken record, I can't thank Darrin Weiss from Lakeside Tech for his help. He pointed me int he right direction many times and constantly challenged me to dig deeper. Appreciate it.

    Time for a lake test.

  7. #17
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home Myself's Avatar
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    Re: Another 1100 STX DI "No Spark"

    Yaaayyy!!!!!
    http://www.facebook.com/twinlakesjetskirepair

    '89 Kawi 650SX 42.4 GPS
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    ported cylinders, matched cases, milled head, blueprinted pump, long ride plate

    '96 Seadoo HX 717 53.13 GPS
    light porting, massaged cases, lightened flywheel, port matched manifolds, Rossier pipe, stubby pump cone

  8. #18
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    Re: Another 1100 STX DI "No Spark"

    Awesome job keeping at it, congrats!

    And thanks for the kind words, I was glad to assist
    FICHT EMM Repairs (Polaris, Kawasaki, Tigershark)
    http://lakesidetech.biz/
    http://fb.me/lakesidetech1
    http://fichtemmrepairs.com

  9. #19
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    Re: Another 1100 STX DI "No Spark"

    Lake test was a success. I mainly just wanted to make sure she floated . Ski started, idled, and ran without trouble on two short runs. We stayed close to shore, brought a paddle, and didn't get very far away from the launch vehicle in case any trouble popped up. Didn't get to fully open it up for long stretches, but the machine seemed to be responsive and got up and went when throttled up.

    Looking forward to a better test soon as soon as I add an EMM-dedicated pisser as many have suggested on the forums.

  10. #20
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    Re: Another 1100 STX DI "No Spark"

    Thanks so much for this write up. I've been helping a buddy work on his Ultra 130 DI. We've replaced the CPS, the Stator, I've gone over the wiring harness extensively, but continued to get KADIAG errors 51, 52, 53 indicating no communication with the injectors. He recently purchased 3 used injectors, and none of them would communicate or static test successfully from KADIAG. The next time we get together, I'll try supplying 12v to both the 12v diagnostic & the 45v run pin and see if this resolves our communication issue.

    We've used a different EMM repair tech than @Hiperco and he's tried his best to help over the phone, but we lost all of last season trying to get past the no spark issue. So glad I did another search and found this thread.

    Thank you both again, and God bless!

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