Detailed 'Blaster 1100 Build (how Yamaha could have done it)
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  1. #1
    PWCToday Newbie jpswift1's Avatar
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    Detailed 'Blaster 1100 Build (how Yamaha could have done it)

    After I completely rebuilt my first 'Blaster and did a 718 Jetmaniac ported 61X/61X, I completely fell in love with it. I spent my last two Summers on Lake Erie and smaller inland lakes around the Buffalo, NY area learning how much fun the 'Blaster is. It does everything that I want to do, from jumping big waves on "Small Craft Advisory" days with my friends, drifting, 180's, 360's, or even just cruising around.

    Soooooooooo, after reading on the forums about 'Blasters with triples swapped in them, I decided this would be my next project. In this build I'll give a detailed, step by step write up for doing a YAMAHA 1100 TRIPLE swap into a 'Blaster along with part numbers and anything else that might help someone along so they don't have spend hours and hours of searching. I'll be adding a lot more pictures as the build progresses.

    In September, I bought a 1995 Yamaha Wave Raider 1100 at a garage sale for $200. The guy said it ran, which was true, but after tearing it apart I have no idea how it ran with the internals in the condition that they were in! We pushed it in the back of my truck and I got it home and pulled the engine. I sold the gauges off it for nearly $300 so I was already ahead on the build. This Wave Raider also proved to be a gold mine of parts that I'd later need for my build that are interchangeable with the 'Blaster.

    Next, a couple weeks later I found a nice 1995 'Blaster with no engine (6.5 hours away from me one way) for a decent price. There were some small parts here and there missing, but it was in pretty decent shape, so I didn't really mind.

    My goal for this build is to have a fast, reliable 'Blaster that is VERY well put together (almost like Yamaha would have/could have done it from the factory) and NOT cobbed together. I've seen some very nice 'Blaster triple swaps, and some that looked, let's just say not very good. I went over every piece of my first 'Blaster and no detail was overlooked and it's proven to be reliable as any brand new machine out there. I want to do the same with this build......sorry if this gets long winded.

    Here's the first step of the many that I'll be posting and probably the most difficult............the exhaust. I'll explain how I did it and list the parts that I used. Many of these will work for a Yamaha 1200 swap as well. The rear exhaust/waterbox was probably the most time consuming part of this build. Measure twice, cut once, more like measure a dozen and half times, sweat profusely, cut once, hope for the best. I have already torn the engine apart, so I had to roughly put it back together to measure where the exhaust was to cut the 5" hole in the firewall (which I ended up elongating to an oval so it would fit. I used a 5" holesaw and then a jigsaw to do this. Once that hole was cut, I trimmed a little bit off the rear of the rubber hose that goes from the stinger of the pipe to the waterbox. The waterbox that I'm using is the left side stock waterbox from the 1100 'Raider. Next, I defoamed the rear of the 'Blaster. A lot of it was done by the previous owner, luckily, but I still had a good bit to do, and yes, it was as big of a pain in the a$$ as everyone says. I got the waterbox secured down with the stock 'Raider 1100 rubber strap and hooks and attached them to the bottom of the hull with Thrust Innovations stainless steel circular plates with nuts in the center of them and used Loctite Marine Epoxy to attach them to the hull. Now here's the part that took a lot of thinking/measuring/swearing. I wanted to use the stock fire extinguisher tube and battery box and have a pipe that goes up over the pump tunnel so water didn't fill the waterbox when I'm stopped in the water. I used the stock 'Raider 1100 rubber pipe/hose that connects the left waterbox to the right waterbox. I trimmed a couple inches off the side that attaches to the right side waterbox and then got a stainless steel 3.5" connector fitting to attach that end into a silicone 90 degree elbow that is 3.5" on one end and 3" on the other. I only used the left side 'Raider waterbox so the end of this elbow will attach into my rear exhaust tube. For that, I used the 3" Wat-Con rear exhaust for 'Blaster triple swaps. I had to cut a few inches off the end of the tube for it to fit properly on the silicone 90 degree elbow. Then finally out back after I got all my holes drilled for the rear exhaust in the hull, I cut a rubber gasket for the flange out of 1/16" Plumb Pak from Lowes. I then used 3M 4200 for additional seal and adhesion.

    Below are parts that I used for what I listed in the previous paragraph. I hope this helps out anyone who might be doing this. Stay tuned, much more to come.

    3M 4200 to seal the rear exhaust flange:
    https://www.walmart.com/ip/3M-COMPAN...SABEgJ52fD_BwE

    Rear 3" Exhaust flange and tube:
    https://www.watcon.com/blaster-exhau...rear%20exhaust

    Rubber gasket material to seal the flange of the exhaust tube against the hull:
    https://www.lowes.com/pd/Plumb-Pak-6...Washer/1082955

    Loctite Marine Epoxy for holding down the 'Raider hooks that hold the rubber strap to secure the waterbox (this stuff is GREAT):
    https://www.lowes.com/pd/LOCTITE-Mar...esive/50436714

    Thrust Innovations mounting disk that the Loctite Marine Epoxy holds to the hull:
    https://www.thrustinnovations.com/bo...isk-p-298.html

    The hose/tube that goes from the 'Raider waterbox to the connector and elbow. This is discontinued, but they're on ebay. It's number 3 in the diagram, part number GJ1-U7555-00-00
    https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/ya...100t/exhaust-2

    The stainless steel 3.5" connector and the silicone 90 degree 3.5" to 3" elbow:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5-inch-89...72.m2749.l2649
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-TO-3-5-4-...72.m2749.l2649
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home theVetteman3's Avatar
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    Re: Detailed 'Blaster 1100 Build (how Yamaha could have done it)

    Very nice. I'll be watching this to see how it ends up. I like the idea of making the conversion clean enough that it would well represent what Yamaha would actually build.
    1985 JS550/800 "Pretty Red": Newmiller 800, Rhaas 750 pump conv. [56.3mph gps]
    2009 1100 SJ:
    Kawi 1100 build in progress
    2009 SJ MINT:
    KP steering adaptor, Worx 228 intake [45.8mph gps]
    1987 WJ650:
    6M6, JD Intake Grate, 17/20, cheater pipe [47.8mph gps]
    1994 XiR: 830cc Superstock, PJS side draft, 13/18 swirl [53.7mph gps]
    1995 SJ MINT:
    [TBD]



  3. #3
    PWCToday Regular Mokarran's Avatar
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    Re: Detailed 'Blaster 1100 Build (how Yamaha could have done it)

    Newbie question; when you say triples do you mean three cylinders instead of two?

  4. #4
    PWCToday Newbie jpswift1's Avatar
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    Re: Detailed 'Blaster 1100 Build (how Yamaha could have done it)

    Quote Originally Posted by Mokarran View Post
    Newbie question; when you say triples do you mean three cylinders instead of two?
    Yes, a triple meaning 3 cylinders.

  5. #5
    Top Dog Hydro-Mike's Avatar
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    Re: Detailed 'Blaster 1100 Build (how Yamaha could have done it)

    Good start, subbed

  6. #6
    PWCToday Newbie jpswift1's Avatar
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    Re: Detailed 'Blaster 1100 Build (how Yamaha could have done it)

    Quote Originally Posted by Hydro-Mike View Post
    Good start, subbed
    Thanks Mike. I appreciate your help in the other thread I posted when I was gathering information about the conversion. I actually have been working on this quite a bit lately, but just got to posting info about my build now. I have about 95% of the parts that I need now, so it's just time to put it together and double and triple check to make sure every last detail is ironed out, so it performs well without having to go crazy and messing with it too much.

  7. #7
    Top Dog Hydro-Mike's Avatar
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    Re: Detailed 'Blaster 1100 Build (how Yamaha could have done it)

    LMK if you need any little bits and pieces. I have a tub with a bunch of little parts off a Wave Venture I stripped out.

  8. #8
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home Rushford_Ripper's Avatar
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    Re: Detailed 'Blaster 1100 Build (how Yamaha could have done it)

    Make sure you lay some turf under that waterbox


  9. #9
    PWCToday Newbie jpswift1's Avatar
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    Re: Detailed 'Blaster 1100 Build (how Yamaha could have done it)

    Quote Originally Posted by Hydro-Mike View Post
    LMK if you need any little bits and pieces. I have a tub with a bunch of little parts off a Wave Venture I stripped out.
    Thanks for the offer, it's greatly appreciated. I got pretty much everything I need except for the two seat stays/tabs that go on the side of the hood to hold the front left and right corners of the hood on. These are specific to the Waveblaster though.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rushford_Ripper View Post
    Make sure you lay some turf under that waterbox
    I just got a bulk roll of 'Turf. I also got a can of Dap Weldwood. I didn't want to open the can until I was ready to lay the 'Turf on the 'Blaster (after I have it painted).......what else would be good to attach a small piece of 'Turf to the waterbox?

  10. #10
    PWCToday Newbie jpswift1's Avatar
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    Re: Detailed 'Blaster 1100 Build (how Yamaha could have done it)

    Here's a shot of the rear exhaust tube all installed. This took a lot of time and measuring to get it installed at the proper angle to meet my exhaust hose/tube, but I was thrilled how it turned out. It was a contortionist act getting the washers and nuts on the screws because it was mounted on the rear of the hull, but with several long extensions and some patience I got everything buttoned down nicely. I also ordered an ADA 'Blaster 2 6mm steering cable adapter and I got the used OEM 'Blaster II cable mounted. It's much beefier than the OEM 'Blaster 1 steering cable, so it should hold up just fine.

    I'm using the stock 144mm 'Blaster 1 pump, so I simply went through it with new OEM seals and added a Solas Concord Big Hub 15/22 impeller. I also sealed it up with a new OEM pump seal and Yamabond between the pump housing and wear ring housing.

    I also took the bottom end of the 1100 apart and cleaned and inspeceted everything with a fine tooth comb. I bought a bunch of new OEM (no cheap Chinese crap or no name stuff for this engine). I found the best prices for OEM parts is from www.ronayers.com They're great to deal with, and offer free shipping on orders over $149. I'd HIGHLY recommend them. One of the crank bearings (mag side) had a just a tiny bit of "growl" to it when I spun it by hand, so I replaced it just to be safe, along with every gasket and seal in the engine. The bottom end of the engine will remain stock, but the top end will have the "go fast" fun stuff done to it. Here are some more pics of the progress.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by jpswift1; 01-14-2020 at 11:41 PM.

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