Detailed 'Blaster 1100 Build (how Yamaha could have done it) - Page 3
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  1. #21
    Top Dog Hydro-Mike's Avatar
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    Re: Detailed 'Blaster 1100 Build (how Yamaha could have done it)

    It could have been a tweek to the crank , wave jumping maybe. Who is doing your cylinder?

  2. #22
    PWCToday Newbie jpswift1's Avatar
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    Re: Detailed 'Blaster 1100 Build (how Yamaha could have done it)

    Quote Originally Posted by Hydro-Mike View Post
    It could have been a tweek to the crank , wave jumping maybe. Who is doing your cylinder?
    I hope the crank is striaght and true. I have the bottom end all put back together and it doesn't bind at all, and it turns smoothly.

    Erickson Machine & Performance will be doing to cylinder and head mods.

  3. #23
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home Rushford_Ripper's Avatar
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    Re: Detailed 'Blaster 1100 Build (how Yamaha could have done it)

    If your doing a new motor, I would for sure have the crank checked out to make sure it is in factory spec, even have it rebuilt, or install a new one.


  4. #24
    PWCToday Newbie jpswift1's Avatar
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    Re: Detailed 'Blaster 1100 Build (how Yamaha could have done it)

    Good news, the crank is OK. I believe I figured out the problem. This engine was from a 1995 Wave Raider. The earlier Mikuni carbs on these engines, from what I've read, have tiny holes in the return line passages in each of the carbs that act as restrictors. When one of them clogs, which seems like it happens easily, it creates a lean condition since the carb is not supplying enough fuel to that cylinder. The later model carbs had the restrictor built into the nipple on the end of one carb that then goes back into the fuel tank. And of course, one of the three tiny holes on the body of my early style Mikuni carbs was clogged. I drilled each of the tiny hole in each of the carb bodies out with a 1/8" drill and then put a 1/4" to 1/4" brass barb fitting, tapped it for a 95 Mikuni main jet (95 should work, if not I can go up or down a few, 97.5, 92.5, 90, etc) with the CORRECT M5 x.75 tap, NOT an M5 x .80.

    Now I'm going to be sending the cylinders out to be worked and while I'm waiting for them, I'm just going to be doing all the small things like touching up little places on the bottom of the hull, getting fuel and electrical connections plumbed, getting the primer kit in the carbs, and rebuilding the mid-shaft with all new OEM bearings and seals.

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