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Thread: B-pipe settings

  1. #1
    Top Dog Boz Mon's Avatar
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    B-pipe settings

    Whatís everyone for settings on their b-pipes? Iím running the top 2 closed and the bottom open 1/4 and it rips super hard.


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    1994 FX1
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  2. #2
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home
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    Re: B-pipe settings

    Bottom two close and top open for me. Tried it each way, also it makes a difference if you feed water bottom up or top down.i like top down best.

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    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home john zigler's Avatar
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    Re: B-pipe settings

    Top two closed, and bottom 1/8 to 1/4 is correct on a Yamaha
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    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home JSNate's Avatar
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    Re: B-pipe settings

    Quote Originally Posted by john zigler View Post
    Top two closed, and bottom 1/8 to 1/4 is correct on a Yamaha

    John, do you feel this is best for low end hit as well?

    Nate

  5. #5
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home john zigler's Avatar
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    Re: B-pipe settings

    Quote Originally Posted by JSNate View Post
    John, do you feel this is best for low end hit as well?

    Nate
    Yes. Opening the top screw will make the power more "linier", less bottom end.
    RCJS also doing business as WATCON
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  6. #6
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home fastgtfairlane's Avatar
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    Re: B-pipe settings

    ive always had the top screw open and other ones closed. mainly cause once the headpipe is bolted in, you cant reach the bottom screw. also, the more water injected, the more bottom end you should have. i have a factory pipe on my 750 in my x2 and i had to open the top screw up 1.5 turns out and the middle 1/2 turn out and it really picked up bottom end and just over all acceleration with no noticable loss in rpm. i think just about every headpipe will be different and it is definitely worth playing around with to see what works on your ski. things like water temp will play a roll in how its setup as well. i live in the south and the water temps in the summer are over 90 degrees. i also have a dedicated water line going to the pipe seperately from the engine.
    Last edited by fastgtfairlane; 08-28-2019 at 09:06 AM.
    96 superjet- rockered, -4, wide tray, adjustable footholds, kv148 mag setback pump, skat 7/14 impeller, rrp adjustable pole, blowsion ovp steering, 62t/62t, ada head, zeel A02T cdi, dual 44s, boysen power reeds, TNT SS chamber

    93-x2, newmiller ported SP750, milled head, R&D single 46 intake, sbn46, fpp blaster chamber pipe, hooker 9/15, umi, rhaas squirrel cage, dakine foot straps

  7. #7
    Top Dog Boz Mon's Avatar
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    Re: B-pipe settings

    Quote Originally Posted by fastgtfairlane View Post
    ive always had the top screw open and other ones closed. mainly cause once the headpipe is bolted in, you cant reach the bottom screw. also, the more water injected, the more bottom end you should have. i have a factory pipe on my 750 in my x2 and i had to open the top screw up 1.5 turns out and the middle 1/2 turn out and it really picked up bottom end and just over all acceleration with no noticable loss in rpm. i think just about every headpipe will be different and it is definitely worth playing around with to see what works on your ski. things like water temp will play a roll in how its setup as well. i live in the south and the water temps in the summer are over 90 degrees. i also have a dedicated water line going to the pipe seperately from the engine.
    This is why Iím confused on the physics of this. You open the top one for more low end hit but that causes more water in the pipe not allowing it to get as hot to make power. I actually jb welded my middle screw closed because it wouldnít close for some reason. Picked up a ton of mid range and top end is nuts now. No loss in low end though.


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  8. #8
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home JSNate's Avatar
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    Re: B-pipe settings

    Quote Originally Posted by john zigler View Post
    Yes. Opening the top screw will make the power more "linier", less bottom end.
    Thank you! I have been considering changing the settings like this on my daughters Air Blair.. I liked the idea of the power coming on a little less during the initial hit as she got comfortable with the ski.. But, I upgraded the impeller to a more aggressive pitch for low end hit and I think it is time to tune the B-Pipe for more low end hit as well.
    Last edited by JSNate; 08-28-2019 at 10:32 AM.

  9. #9
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home JSNate's Avatar
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    Re: B-pipe settings

    Quote Originally Posted by fastgtfairlane View Post
    ive always had the top screw open and other ones closed. mainly cause once the headpipe is bolted in, you cant reach the bottom screw. also, the more water injected, the more bottom end you should have. i have a factory pipe on my 750 in my x2 and i had to open the top screw up 1.5 turns out and the middle 1/2 turn out and it really picked up bottom end and just over all acceleration with no noticable loss in rpm. i think just about every headpipe will be different and it is definitely worth playing around with to see what works on your ski. things like water temp will play a roll in how its setup as well. i live in the south and the water temps in the summer are over 90 degrees. i also have a dedicated water line going to the pipe seperately from the engine.
    This is has been my default setting on my SJ's as well.. However, with the AM hull I am going to use the settings John suggested and see how that goes.. For the SJ skis I like a linear feel as I used those skis more often in the mid and upper range. The AM hulls are best suited for the low end hit and low speed tricks.

    Side note: I had the top open and both lower closed on my FX-1 as well.. I wish I would have tried the other setting on the FX.. But, that ski had crazy acceleration even with the OEM 122 pump.. It was a loose and wild ride!
    Last edited by JSNate; 08-28-2019 at 10:44 AM.

  10. #10
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home fastgtfairlane's Avatar
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    Re: B-pipe settings

    i actually just ended up with a headpipe that apparently came from you Nate. you sold it to another nate in NC and i picked it up from him. haha. factory pipe also recommends having at least one screw open 1/2 turn minimum. on my 750sp x2, i started with 3/4 turn open on the top screw and it had no bottom what so ever so i started opening the screw and ended up with 1.5 turns out on the top and 1/2 turn out on the middle and it rips. soo strange. also, according to newmiller, the pocket that the tapered end of the screw fits in can get corrosion build up over time especially from salt water which can cause a restriction in the bleed screws.
    96 superjet- rockered, -4, wide tray, adjustable footholds, kv148 mag setback pump, skat 7/14 impeller, rrp adjustable pole, blowsion ovp steering, 62t/62t, ada head, zeel A02T cdi, dual 44s, boysen power reeds, TNT SS chamber

    93-x2, newmiller ported SP750, milled head, R&D single 46 intake, sbn46, fpp blaster chamber pipe, hooker 9/15, umi, rhaas squirrel cage, dakine foot straps

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