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ive always had the top screw open and other ones closed. mainly cause once the headpipe is bolted in, you cant reach the bottom screw. also, the more water injected, the more bottom end you should have. i have a factory pipe on my 750 in my x2 and i had to open the top screw up 1.5 turns out and the middle 1/2 turn out and it really picked up bottom end and just over all acceleration with no noticable loss in rpm. i think just about every headpipe will be different and it is definitely worth playing around with to see what works on your ski. things like water temp will play a roll in how its setup as well. i live in the south and the water temps in the summer are over 90 degrees. i also have a dedicated water line going to the pipe seperately from the engine.
ive always had the top screw open and other ones closed. mainly cause once the headpipe is bolted in, you cant reach the bottom screw. also, the more water injected, the more bottom end you should have. i have a factory pipe on my 750 in my x2 and i had to open the top screw up 1.5 turns out and the middle 1/2 turn out and it really picked up bottom end and just over all acceleration with no noticable loss in rpm. i think just about every headpipe will be different and it is definitely worth playing around with to see what works on your ski. things like water temp will play a roll in how its setup as well. i live in the south and the water temps in the summer are over 90 degrees. i also have a dedicated water line going to the pipe seperately from the engine.
This is why I’m confused on the physics of this. You open the top one for more low end hit but that causes more water in the pipe not allowing it to get as hot to make power. I actually jb welded my middle screw closed because it wouldn’t close for some reason. Picked up a ton of mid range and top end is nuts now. No loss in low end though.
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1994 FX1
1985 JS550/650 conversion
2015 Fiat 500 Abarth
Yes. Opening the top screw will make the power more "linier", less bottom end.
Thank you! I have been considering changing the settings like this on my daughters Air Blair.. I liked the idea of the power coming on a little less during the initial hit as she got comfortable with the ski.. But, I upgraded the impeller to a more aggressive pitch for low end hit and I think it is time to tune the B-Pipe for more low end hit as well.
ive always had the top screw open and other ones closed. mainly cause once the headpipe is bolted in, you cant reach the bottom screw. also, the more water injected, the more bottom end you should have. i have a factory pipe on my 750 in my x2 and i had to open the top screw up 1.5 turns out and the middle 1/2 turn out and it really picked up bottom end and just over all acceleration with no noticable loss in rpm. i think just about every headpipe will be different and it is definitely worth playing around with to see what works on your ski. things like water temp will play a roll in how its setup as well. i live in the south and the water temps in the summer are over 90 degrees. i also have a dedicated water line going to the pipe seperately from the engine.
This is has been my default setting on my SJ's as well.. However, with the AM hull I am going to use the settings John suggested and see how that goes.. For the SJ skis I like a linear feel as I used those skis more often in the mid and upper range. The AM hulls are best suited for the low end hit and low speed tricks.
Side note: I had the top open and both lower closed on my FX-1 as well.. I wish I would have tried the other setting on the FX.. But, that ski had crazy acceleration even with the OEM 122 pump.. It was a loose and wild ride!
i actually just ended up with a headpipe that apparently came from you Nate. you sold it to another nate in NC and i picked it up from him. haha. factory pipe also recommends having at least one screw open 1/2 turn minimum. on my 750sp x2, i started with 3/4 turn open on the top screw and it had no bottom what so ever so i started opening the screw and ended up with 1.5 turns out on the top and 1/2 turn out on the middle and it rips. soo strange. also, according to newmiller, the pocket that the tapered end of the screw fits in can get corrosion build up over time especially from salt water which can cause a restriction in the bleed screws.
Nate you better damn well hope that head pipe isn't from the FX1 assy.
I still curse at myself periodically, but I blame it mostly on my Tourettes with a little credit given to you.
Nate you better damn well hope that head pipe isn't from the FX1 assy.
I still curse at myself periodically, but I blame it mostly on my Tourettes with a little credit given to you.
Rest easy, Prick.. The head pipe that Fast has is the one that I bored the old, frozen screws from and added the oversize kit.. Should work really well!
Water psi makes a difference too duel or single line cooling and even a water bypass. Bottom line is it has to be tuned just link a carb. Tyr each way anf find what you like and report back. People think they want bottom but its really a good hit bottom to mid they are lookinh for.
I have no problem get to all my screws with the right tools.
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