2001 gtx di maintenance alarm
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  1. #1
    PWCToday Newbie Mikejrc's Avatar
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    2001 gtx di maintenance alarm

    My neighbors gtx steering cable nut broke and took on water but it didn't totally submerge. He had it tied up at his dock so it filled up about half way inside. I helped him get it running by blowing all the water out of the plug holes. It spit and sputtered a bit then ran fine. We left it run on the house for about 2 hours giving it some revs every so often. It now runs fine but the maintenance buzzer and message won't go out. Tried multiple times holding the set button but it won't reset. Any good tips?

  2. #2
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    Re: 2001 gtx di maintenance alarm

    Running it on the hose, didn't really generate the same temps you would get out running normally. You also aren't wetting any shaft sealing arrangements (i.e. carbon seal) either.

    If you've pushed the reset button, and still get the MAINT message, it isn't a maintenance reminder, but a stored fault code. They use "MAINT" for lots of faults, not just a reminder of something to be routinely performed. Might have been clearer if they used "MAINT" & "FIXME" instead. Water is probably inside something that it doesn't belong in.

  3. #3
    PWCToday Newbie Mikejrc's Avatar
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    Re: 2001 gtx di maintenance alarm

    After I fixed the broken nut on the cable I told him he needed to get it in the water and run it. He ran for about an hour and didn't really get on it due to wear ring is also shot. He said it was cavitating a lot so he pulled it back out. I gave him a parts list so the new wear ring is going in this weekend. If he can get it back in and really run it like he stole it is it possible it could clear itself out?

  4. #4
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    Re: 2001 gtx di maintenance alarm

    Quote Originally Posted by Mikejrc View Post
    If he can get it back in and really run it like he stole it is it possible it could clear itself out?
    Probably not. There's two situations here, assuming when you said "plugs", you meant spark plugs. The first is what is or remains in the crankcase. Leaving water in here is death to an engine. Even getting most water out, leaving some will create damp air within the case, and start damage to the bearings. If there was not time to run it for a while, then fogging might have helped the situation.

    Secondly, with the water depth described, only the lowest areas could be affected, as many of the sensors and such are up higher. The low area I speak of is the magneto case. If water got in..... yuck. It's likely not going to leave out of there as easily as it got in.

    I'll assume you don't have a means to read the fault codes? This could save you time in clearing this up. If you try to run it dry, don't stray too far from your launch point. Run with another boat if possible. Swimming home stinks.

  5. #5
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home kcr357's Avatar
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    Re: 2001 gtx di maintenance alarm

    Check the carbone ring, i cant image it wasn't damaged running on the hose for 2 hours
    How many gerbils could a gerbil jammer jam if a gerbil jammer could jam gerbils?


    "You build cheater motor's & still get smoked !!!!"
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  6. #6
    PWCToday Newbie Mikejrc's Avatar
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    Re: 2001 gtx di maintenance alarm

    No way for me to check fault codes. I didn't actually see how much water got in because he'd went and pumped most out so he could walk it up to the boat launch. I got there as it was going on the trailer. It was probably ten inches of water in the hull so definitely a possibility of being in the stator. I went through it more tonight after getting the new wear ring in. Found the coil box had partially filled and one of connections to the computer had leaked and connections were crusty white. Cleaned all that up and no maintenance buzzer! Btw, carbon ring was getting a water drip from another hose when we ran it after initial water cleanup of the motor. All seems good and it's gonna get ridden like it was stolen tomorrow. Thanks for the input!!

  7. #7
    PWCToday Newbie Mikejrc's Avatar
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    Re: 2001 gtx di maintenance alarm

    After getting the new wear ring in and running it in the water it runs great for a few minutes then back to bogging when trying to give it throttle. I had drained the fuel tank and no water was present. All fuses check out ok. Compression is 130 on each cylinder. I replaced the rectifier/ regulator because it wasn't showing proper charging to the battery. Pretty much zero charging. The new rectifier shows it charging at 13.5 at idle but won't get up to 14 when revving the the engine. I ohms tested the stator and checked to see if it was grounding and it checked ok. Previously I had checked for a.c. voltage at the battery and was none. Now it's showing 27 volts a.c. at the battery running and not running? I'm baffled. Should the stator be checked for water still. That's my guess but a lot of work if that's not causing the problem. What else should I check before digging in the stator? The a.c. voltage at the battery has me thinking it has to be water in the stator housing. The new rectifier and the old both show the a.c. voltage but the new rectifier at least shows it's charging. Probably not charging as much as I'd should be though. Could it be bad mpem? Why does it run good for a few minutes then bog? No maintenance alarms now either. Stumped!

  8. #8
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    Re: 2001 gtx di maintenance alarm

    AC in the battery is not gonna be tolerated. AC in the system usually indicates a bad diode. With water in the stator, you might get some similar findings. Did you a buy factory regulator/rectifier or aftermarket? There is a conversion for the factory r/r with a better factory r/r. Try running with the r/r disconnected, and see how it performs. If the battery is in good shape, it should carry you through a small test.

  9. #9
    PWCToday Newbie Mikejrc's Avatar
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    Re: 2001 gtx di maintenance alarm

    Rdjeep Rectifier, regulator was an aftermarket from Amazon. El cheap O. Didn't want to blow a oem if there's a possibility of water in the stator. Battery is new and in good shape. You say a.c. voltage could be a bad Diode? Diode where? R/R? I checked the diode functions of the old rectifIer and they were OK. It just wasn't regulating anything out back to the battery and the unit was hot after running a short time. The aftermarket isn't getting hot and it's at least showing charging. I'll check the diode functions in the new rectifier as well. I don't know how to check the regulator functions of R/R though. Couldn't find anything on how to check that function other than to see if voltage is getting back to the battery. I'm just gonna bite the bullet and pull the stator for piece of mind. If water did get in its gonna just cause more damage if it's left in there. I've been reading the manual for this DI and checking other things on it and found the hose from the compressor to the rave solenoid has a split in it about 2 inches long. Would that be causing problems with the injection rail? Are the two lines from the compressor to the rave solenoid and the fuel rail shared in the output of the compressor? I can't find that answer in the manual. If they are then its obviously starving for air pressure in the fuel rail. Could this be why it only runs good for a couple minutes then Peter's out? It's not getting low voltage message when it does Peter out. Also it doesn't look like the raves have been working for a while. I had to give them both a tug with pliers to free them up. Probably gonna pull them out and clean them up since I'm digging in to this thing. The owner said he's always taken it to the dealer for service and winterizing. Kinda seems like the service work has been sub par. I'm finding things that obviously have been neglected. I think the tuned pipe has been leaking for years. So much oil all over everything inside the hull. Nothing's been greased in years. I own an older SPX model and haven't ever really done much to it other than converting to pre mix and replacing the CDI. Also own an old Yamaha wave raider 1100 that I've rebuilt the engine in. I like the old simple stuff! This DI is nice but too many bells and whistles for me!

  10. #10
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    Re: 2001 gtx di maintenance alarm

    From my sessions on the charging system few years back.... Tests are rather limited, I don't like "plug it in and try it", but that's kind of it. I don't recall specific bench tests for the R/R. There isn't any good internal description for it. Some models of SD imbedded the R/R function onto the MPEM, others have it as a separate unit to replace. I like the latter. AC passing through is indicative of a failed-closed diode, its conducting the full ac wave cycle. However, in you case, there may be something else going on. If you can gain some access into the stator area without full disassembly, you might be able to probe inside with a pipe cleaner, and then check it for wetness.

    Good, you have manual. Keep it mind, it is like a refresher for a factory course a mechanic took, not often a full blown how to do it. Sections were often authored by different people, some are way better than others.

    You are correct, there are two discharge lines from the compressor. The larger hi-temp line is flowing air for fuel delivery, and the smaller plastic line to the solenoid, which flows very little air to do its job (hence the cheap low temp hose). A split in either hose, is gonna cause all kinds of fuel delivery problems. The air pressure is also partly the pilot force for the fuel regulator. As the cheap hose gets hot from the leaking hot compressed air, the split could open further, releasing more air and possibly causing the die-off. It doesn't take much variation in fuel pressure to die out. These things are tuned tight.

    Dealership horror stories? Everyone has them. If I were close enough to some of the guys on here that own shops, I would seek them out. But that's not my luck! That's why I do my own work, and have an unhappy spouse. There too many variations on designs within the SD line. You need a manual to try and understand what's going on. Winterizing is no exception with a DI. There are too many lines to fill and verify.

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