94 Sea Doo running problem
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  1. #1
    PWCToday Newbie
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    94 Sea Doo running problem

    Okay so I'm new to PWC's and I bought a 94 gtx with the dual mikuni carbs that had been sitting for a while. I've been tinkering with it and rebuilt the carbs changed fuel lines new plugs clipped the wires and rebuilt the jet pump. Now when I get it in the water it runs great for 10-15 minutes sputters and dies. I can get it to start back up instantly by choking it and it runs for about 30 seconds before it dies again. It always happens like this too. I put it in the water and it runs great for a bit then dies. The plugs look good after it dies,nice dry dark golden color. I have no idea what to even look at. Any help is greatly appreciated, Thanks!

  2. #2
    PWCToday Newbie
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    Re: 94 Sea Doo running problem

    check for air leak in fuel line.

  3. #3
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home Cliff's Avatar
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    Re: 94 Sea Doo running problem

    Welcome to the party!

    Check into what Bill said. Here is the link to your model's
    shop manual and ask a lot of questions.

    http://seadoomanuals.net/manuals/1994-seadoo.php
    Last edited by Cliff; 06-22-2019 at 10:34 PM.
    What would Chuck Norris do?

  4. #4
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home bills86e's Avatar
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    Re: 94 Sea Doo running problem

    Piston Seizure.
    Cylinder walls get worn more at top as the ski engine ages. This causes the pistons to swell and then seize. When they cool, they will return to size and you can start her up. Gas cools the combustion chamber, so try enriching the carbs. You are due for a top end & RV cover.

    Backfireing, Hard to start/re-start, poor performance.
    You have to pull RV Cover assy w/carb, pull the rotary valve, use dots of grease in four
    places on the rotary face to hold small pieces of .050 solder, reassemble the cover
    on the motor with the valve out, torqe the cover bolts to spec, re-disassemble and
    measure the squish on the solder, add all four measurements together and divide by
    four, now measure the rotary valve thickness and subtract that number from the other
    number, this will be your rotary valve clearance. Best is 0.012 = plus or minus 0.001.
    0.010 the engine begins to overheat, 0.014is excessive clearance and hard starting,
    difficulty in carb tuning, because it will steal the manifold pressure from the
    adjacent cylinder, resulting in poor performance in accelleration & speed.
    When water gets intruded into the manifold, say from theski flipped and the rider
    failed to roll-over the watercraft in the direction he should see on the sticker
    that is posted on the rear of the overturned watercraft, the water removes the
    lubricating oils on the rv cover side of the rotary valve plate and wears away
    the metal on the rv cover face. The next step is to have the cover re-machined
    to original 0.012 spec. or replace with a new cover. Check this spec at final assy.
    A good idea is to put paint on a shaft spline, and on the rv plate notch on engine
    side before you slide the rv plate off the splined shaft, so as to make the valve
    face toward the engine and retain the original timing and make this a "no Brainer"
    to reassemble the rv plate. Use a non-acid solder if ya can find it.

    Bills86e
    Last edited by bills86e; 06-22-2019 at 10:36 PM.

  5. #5
    PWCToday Newbie
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    Re: 94 Sea Doo running problem

    Quote Originally Posted by homebrewdoo View Post
    check for air leak in fuel line.
    I bought more fuel line to replace it again just in case I'll try that tomorrow.

    Quote Originally Posted by bills86e View Post
    Piston Seizure.
    Cylinder walls get worn more at top as the ski engine ages. This causes the pistons to swell and then seize. When they cool, they will return to size and you can start her up. Gas cools the combustion chamber, so try enriching the carbs. You are due for a top end & RV cover.

    Backfireing, Hard to start/re-start, poor performance.
    You have to pull RV Cover assy w/carb, pull the rotary valve, use dots of grease in four
    places on the rotary face to hold small pieces of .050 solder, reassemble the cover
    on the motor with the valve out, torqe the cover bolts to spec, re-disassemble and
    measure the squish on the solder, add all four measurements together and divide by
    four, now measure the rotary valve thickness and subtract that number from the other
    number, this will be your rotary valve clearance. Best is 0.012 = plus or minus 0.001.
    0.010 the engine begins to overheat, 0.014is excessive clearance and hard starting,
    difficulty in carb tuning, because it will steal the manifold pressure from the
    adjacent cylinder, resulting in poor performance in accelleration & speed.
    When water gets intruded into the manifold, say from theski flipped and the rider
    failed to roll-over the watercraft in the direction he should see on the sticker
    that is posted on the rear of the overturned watercraft, the water removes the
    lubricating oils on the rv cover side of the rotary valve plate and wears away
    the metal on the rv cover face. The next step is to have the cover re-machined
    to original 0.012 spec. or replace with a new cover. Check this spec at final assy.
    A good idea is to put paint on a shaft spline, and on the rv plate notch on engine
    side before you slide the rv plate off the splined shaft, so as to make the valve
    face toward the engine and retain the original timing and make this a "no Brainer"
    to reassemble the rv plate. Use a non-acid solder if ya can find it.

    Bills86e
    I don't think it's either of those. When it dies I can immediately crank it and it sounds fine not like it's struggling to crank as if it was seized. I have a slight inkling that the RV is worn out but it's not showing any starting or running symptoms as if it was worn out.

  6. #6
    PWCToday Guru
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    Re: 94 Sea Doo running problem

    When you done the carbs, did you clean or replace the little butt filters?

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