How stiff is TOO stiff for a new driveshaft housing bearing? - Page 2
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  1. #11
    PWCToday Regular johnlam940's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Cen Tex
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    34
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    85

    Re: How stiff is TOO stiff for a new driveshaft housing bearing?

    Update and Public Service Announcement for everyone:

    From their website: "JSP Manufacturing is a US manufacturing and custom mold company. At JSPMFG we produce various consumer products such as cup holders, piling caps, gun accessories, jetski parts, powersport accessories and many more items."


    A+ for their customer service. They responded to my emails quickly, didn't hassle me about my problem, and shipped out a new unit without asking for the old one back. With that said, their parts are GARBAGE.

    The new unit came with its packaging already opened. I assumed that they wanted to double check that I got a good part. Well I tried spinning the bearing and this one wouldn't move either. I accepted defeat and decided to press out the seals and bearing so I can order a rebuild kit and just re-use the new housing.

    On the newest unit, I noticed I can unseat one of the small seals with just my thumbs....but I have to press the rest out. One of the seal springs came apart when I barely touched it. The seals came out scratched and covered in grit. The bearing housing is made out of a VERY porous aluminum and is full of aluminum grit. The bearings are not branded besides the generic size/model number and they free spin with a little bit of play. You can hear the ball bearings clink while spinning so I'm not sure if they are caged.

    On my original new unit, I found out that the seals were pressed in crooked and the seals were destroyed. Same porous and gritty housing as the other one and same loose free spinning bearing.

    On my OEM unit, everything came out looking nearly flawless. The aluminum is machined with a smooth finished. The seals are not scratched and the bearing (Koyo) spins without play and feels properly tight. The only reason I'm replacing the OEM unit is because the vulcanized rubber on the water side of the housing is rotted.

    Also per Kawasaki specs, there should be grease packed in between each double seal. No grease was used in the JSP units.

    Ignore the pump bearings in my picture.....Those were the original Koyos that went bad after the seals let water in them.

    IMG_20181013_000736061.jpg
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    IMG_20181013_000748485.jpg
    IMG_20181013_000908229.jpg
    Last edited by johnlam940; 10-13-2018 at 01:42 AM.

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