Starting Issue
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Thread: Starting Issue

  1. #1
    PWCToday Newbie Eric_1983's Avatar
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    Starting Issue

    Could use a few tips. Just picked up a 1993 Seadoo XP. The guy said it needed a battery but other than that it's good to go. He tried jumped the battery on site but the jumper was dead too.
    Replaced the battery and she came to life. Took it to the lake and fired up and went for a rip. Ran for about 3 mins and then I wanted to try the stop button feature and it shut the ski down. Fired it up and continued rippin around. Ski slowed down and stalled. Seller said gas was a year old but he had it out 2 months previous with no issues. Fired it back up and went for about 5 seconds then died again. Fired once more time and same issue. Went to start one last time to get back to launch and nothing. No click, no nothing. Thought battery was dead, so checked it out with a meter, 12.7 Volts. Opened up electrical box and jumped relay with a screwdriver and she cranked. Ok, so relay is bad.
    Ordered new relay and installed. Cranked without spark plug wires connected sO i was happy. Put the electrical box back together and put everything back to normal. Drained the fuel tank and Went to fire it up and nothing. No click, no nothing.
    I feel like something is frying my relay or something else is going on. Does the gas tank need a level for the ski to crank? I didnt touch anything else, but maybe a loose wire is causing a break in the power loop???
    Anyone every have this issue?

  2. #2
    PWCToday Guru
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    Re: Starting Issue

    if you checked the battery voltage at the battery, did you also check it at critical points in the start circuit? Hold your black test probe on the NEG battery terminal. Then with the red probe, start at the battery terminal, then test various points along the hot circuit to the solenoid and into the ebox. If all of those check out OK, check the ground side the same way.

    Most likely a loose or corroded connection 1993 machine.
    2, 1998 TS 770 L, restored and running great. (Except for the one with engine that SBT put the WRONG crankshaft bearing into and is now sitting as I collect repair parts)

  3. #3
    PWCToday Newbie Eric_1983's Avatar
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    Re: Starting Issue

    Quote Originally Posted by hemmjo View Post
    if you checked the battery voltage at the battery, did you also check it at critical points in the start circuit? Hold your black test probe on the NEG battery terminal. Then with the red probe, start at the battery terminal, then test various points along the hot circuit to the solenoid and into the ebox. If all of those check out OK, check the ground side the same way.

    Most likely a loose or corroded connection 1993 machine.

    Thanks foe for your reply. The power cable only goes from the battery straight to the relay and the ground only goes from battery to block. When I put in the new relay the power cable was too short to reach battery so I extended it with another wire and nuts and bolts. She cranked over but no start since plug wires didnít reach. Removed extension wire and put the electrical box back together and put it in its place and now no click no nothing. Your right, it probably is a loose or corroded connection. But I had crank when it was apart now nothing. Tested resistance for lanyard safety, start button, stop button and all 3 are fine. Lost!!!!!!!!

  4. #4
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    Re: Starting Issue

    It is typical, as yours is, for the cables to run Big Red wire, to the solenoid, Big Black wire to the engine block. That simple circuit contains 8 possible points of failure. I have seen failures at each of those 8 points over the years. Sometimes more that one bad one on the same engine. If you tested your battery voltage at the battery terminals, you did not test any of those weak spots.

    These spots are;
    1 and 2, the connection between the + and - cable ends and the battery terminal.
    3 and 4, the crimped connection on both + and - actual conductors and the cable ends on the battery end.
    5 and 6, same as 3 and 4 except on the engine block and solenoid (relay) ends of the cables
    7 and 8, the connection between the + cable end and the solenoid and between the - cable end and the engine block.

    In addition to these high current connections, you may also have a bad connection in the smaller wires that make up the rest of the circuit.

    You are not really lost, you just need to look more closely, use your meter to test each connection. You should have an OHM, setting on your meter, use that to test all connections.

    You cannot trust a voltage test when there is no load on the circuit, you can get a good voltage reading, with no load, then as soon ad any load is applied, the voltage can drop VERY LOW do to a bad connection. If you must use voltage to test, take the reading with no load then note the difference when load is applied. (you would apply load by attempting to start the engine)
    2, 1998 TS 770 L, restored and running great. (Except for the one with engine that SBT put the WRONG crankshaft bearing into and is now sitting as I collect repair parts)

  5. #5
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home Myself's Avatar
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    Re: Starting Issue

    You would also get nothing if you put the small red on the wrong side of the solenoid.
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  6. #6
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home john zigler's Avatar
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    Re: Starting Issue

    When you replaced your relay, did you buy new, used? Is it OE Sea Doo, or cheap e-bay china part?

    Test to see if you have 12+ volts on the starter side of the relay when you push your start button. Maybe your starter has gone out.
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