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  1. #11
    PWCToday Newbie
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    Re: 99' Ultra 150 needle and seat removal help

    I'm hoping to get it in the water by Monday. I'll post back with how it goes.

  2. #12
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home hyosung's Avatar
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    Re: 99' Ultra 150 needle and seat removal help

    as turbo posted , it can run on 1 cylinder on the hose and still seem fie,
    ,a couple of things to check immediately after first water test when the smoke clears ,with the air box cover off , check, the carb slides are coming up even as you blip the throttle ,spray, carb or brake cleaner around where the throttle shafts go through the carbs(rpm will vary if there is the common leak there), check , plugs are dropping out even one cylinder at a time "whilst at idle under load, by pulling one lead at a time ,check, water flow is even and the same temp from all 3 pisser fittings,if any of the above is not good ,DON'T RUN THE SKI ,you will do damage ...
    you have indicated that you have a erratic idle so dont take chances as the JT 1200 is not very forgiving if there is an issue with one or more cylinders.
    Last edited by hyosung; 04-12-2018 at 08:06 AM.
    2 x 650 sx custom build (my toys) http://www.pwctoday.com/showthread.php?t=425767

    modded X2 650

    stock looking ZXI 900 ""being cannibalized to sponsor a 650 sx build """

    Jerry Rigging is my specialty .....


    Originally Posted by hyosung
    so when you say i """ hammer and slap things together """ this may be so , BUT they are hammered and slapped together SOLID

  3. #13
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    Re: 99' Ultra 150 needle and seat removal help

    I installed the triple pisser mod and when I run water through the main water line like it would be in the water all three outlets are of equal temp, the slides in the carbs move freely and all return smoothly, and the throttle shafts have 0 play in them.

    I'm going to pull the plugs just to see if they're loaded up with oil as bad as when I first started messing with it and go from there. I've been around skis all my life and worked on several ultras but this my first personally owned ultra.

    The ski only has 35 hours and it came out of freshwater up in New York so besides a faded red hull and the bit of oil in the hull from the leaking sending unit, it's in incredible shape.

  4. #14
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    99' Ultra 150 needle and seat removal help

    You can use compressed air to check slides, common issue is they are hard to install correctly. Before putting cap on I will put a dab of super glue to hold the diaphragms down and install spring and cap. I think your at the point of water testing, go see how it runs and what Rpms you get. Any questions we are here to help.

    Side note if you need any parts please pm me, I have a few of theses ultra stripped in a box.

    All the sending units leak, you can replace the grommit and she will leak again. I pull grommit out and put a good silicone around the base and Pope the grommit then sensor back it. No more leaks

    Good luck!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by turboman412; 04-12-2018 at 08:57 AM.

  5. #15
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    Re: 99' Ultra 150 needle and seat removal help

    Quote Originally Posted by turboman412 View Post
    You can use compressed air to check slides, common issue is they are hard to install correctly. Before putting cap on I will put a dab of super glue to hold the diaphragms down and install spring and cap. I think your at the point of water testing, go see how it runs and what Rpms you get. Any questions we are here to help.

    Side note if you need any parts please pm me, I have a few of theses ultra stripped in a box.

    All the sending units leak, you can replace the grommit and she will leak again. I pull grommit out and put a good silicone around the base and Pope the grommit then sensor back it. No more leaks

    Good luck!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I think I'm at the water testing point too, I pulled the air box just to double check the slides and everything is good.

    And I did the same thing with some ultra grey rtv on the sending unit. So far no leaks with it tilted back and oil above the hole in the tank.

  6. #16
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    Re: 99' Ultra 150 needle and seat removal help

    Alright guys, I water tested it today and discovered a few things (while also getting rained on).

    1. The triple pisser mod is fantastic for keeping your feet warm in cold water and it makes it super easy to detect any cooling issues at a glance.

    2. Which is the bad part, the pump needs to be rebuilt as it roars like crazy now after getting some time on it. At first the pump wasn't super loud just barely noticeable. But after catching a wave and coming back down into the water the sudden load caused the bearings to begin roaring where I could barely hear the ski. Luckily i was just around the bend from a public ramp.

    3. The ski has a billet exhaust outlet on it and is significantly louder than a stock ski, is there any way to identify an aftermarket waterbox? I'm 99% sure just having a straight outlet wouldn't make a big difference.

    Edit for #3, I see the yet waterbox is a lot smaller than stock so I'm guessing having the billet outlet really does make the sound travel further since the stock angled piece would catch the exiting water and direct it downwards.

    4. In the water the ski doesn't bog at all but on the trailer it does. Given where the flush attachment is located would it make sense to say that the bog is from back pressure due to a loaded up waterbox?

    Also I have to give it some gas along with choking it to get it started even when it's hot but I'm leaning towards the pump bearings causing too much drag for it to idle easily. I had to idle it up in the water a bit and when I pulled it out and fired it up the idle was significantly higher than before I started my run.

    So Tuesday I'm pulling the pump and checking everything. What's the consensus on going to oil in the pump or even grease versus just the sealed bearings all by themselves?
    Last edited by RCWD21; 04-15-2018 at 02:59 PM.

  7. #17
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    Re: 99' Ultra 150 needle and seat removal help

    Quote Originally Posted by RCWD21 View Post
    Alright guys, I water tested it today and discovered a few things (while also getting rained on).

    1. The triple pisser mod is fantastic for keeping your feet warm in cold water and it makes it super easy to detect any cooling issues at a glance.

    2. Which is the bad part, the pump needs to be rebuilt as it roars like crazy now after getting some time on it. At first the pump wasn't super loud just barely noticeable. But after catching a wave and coming back down into the water the sudden load caused the bearings to begin roaring where I could barely hear the ski. Luckily i was just around the bend from a public ramp.


    3. The ski has a billet exhaust outlet on it and is significantly louder than a stock ski, is there any way to identify an aftermarket waterbox? I'm 99% sure just having a straight outlet wouldn't make a big difference.

    Edit for #3, I see the yet waterbox is a lot smaller than stock so I'm guessing having the billet outlet really does make the sound travel further since the stock angled piece would catch the exiting water and direct it downwards.

    4. In the water the ski doesn't bog at all but on the trailer it does. Given where the flush attachment is located would it make sense to say that the bog is from back pressure due to a loaded up waterbox?

    Also I have to give it some gas along with choking it to get it started even when it's hot but I'm leaning towards the pump bearings causing too much drag for it to idle easily. I had to idle it up in the water a bit and when I pulled it out and fired it up the idle was significantly higher than before I started my run.


    So Tuesday I'm pulling the pump and checking everything. What's the consensus on going to oil in the pump or even grease versus just the sealed bearings all by themselves?
    #2 rebuild that bump before running again, pumps on these need to be rebuilt around 80hrs. if you decide to keep running like this you risk ruining things. Use the pump rebuild kit from wsm for 03-05 they added an extra seal.

    #3 take a picture, there is only one aftermarket box made for the ultra. by TDR it will be aluminum non painted and fit like **** while the stock will be painted and fit like it should. ADA billet outlet does make a difference on the noise. amazing how good they sound in stock form.

    #4 No loaded water box will not cause a bog, neither will a bad pump bearings.

    These are hard to start, all of the 1200's i have had have been this way. installing a primer will make your life much easier

    I leave the seals on the bearings and add some gear oil to the cavity, Point in doing this is not so much lubricating the bearings but keeping the water away from the bearings. and when you have a leaking seal you will see gear oil coming out of the pump. So far has worked very well, i can promise you that pump is full of water.
    Last edited by turboman412; 04-16-2018 at 09:27 AM.

  8. #18
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    Re: 99' Ultra 150 needle and seat removal help

    20180416_100106.jpg

    I pulled it apart today and the horrible rusty water just kept spilling out of it. Luckily i have another pump I can use for parts seeing that the dynafly impeller has all three trailing edges of its blades bent forward somehow :/

    I have the bearings and seals on order and they'll be here later in the week. I hope this picture uploads if not I'll try a different method.

  9. #19
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    Re: 99' Ultra 150 needle and seat removal help

    Screenshot_20180416-095544.png

    Here's the horrible mess that never stopped

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