2000 rx problems
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  1. #1
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    2000 rx problems

    Hello itís been a long long time since Iíve been here. I recently bought a beat pile of crap called a rx millennium edition with trailer for $300. It has a few things wrong

    1) weak cranking, have a new starter and solenoid going in soon, had to yank the motor out as the old starter was stuck and snapped off the head of the starter housing in the block and I had to open the front case and knock it out from the inside.

    2) some genius wrapped wire around a fuse for the accessory circuit, now Iím hitting a wall.
    Testing the pins from the mpem I only get 4-6v from the pins for power to the gauges, I assume the mpem is shot now. But canít get any info on the gauges when I try to give it 12v directly, just the red light on the info screen comes on. I blow air at the speed sensor and the needle does not move. Gauges shot too?

    3)I have no trim control on the switch, I can directly power the motor and it functions well it seems. Smoothly and sounds like I would expect it too.

    Any help would be appreciated.


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  2. #2
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home kcr357's Avatar
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    Re: 2000 rx problems

    The VTS module is bad, you can buy the "Trim Fix" (ghetto as heII) or get a used module.
    don't count on the speed sensor being functional, they go bad often. Just like the VTS,
    Seadoo wiring is.........complex.
    I wouldnt' try to diagnose anything at this time, wait until you fix all known issues, get the engine in, and then get to the wiring. The red light could be a bad or disconnected overheat sensor, low oil sensor, low fuel sensor, maintenance reminder, etc....iirc
    In the meantime you can check the sensors for shorts and make sure they aren't throwing the signal for the red light. Fuel pickup should be 2-90ish ohms, the rest you need to download a shop manual in the sticky section, it'll give you values for everything.
    How many gerbils could a gerbil jammer jam if a gerbil jammer could jam gerbils?


    "You build cheater motor's & still get smoked !!!!"
    "Its not your fault. You just don't understand what you're talking about. "

  3. #3
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    Re: 2000 rx problems

    Thank you, Iíll get the motor in before goin further with the electrical


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  4. #4
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    Re: 2000 rx problems

    Update on the info gauge, I jumped 12v to it again and now that itís dark I can see the display with a flashlight, I only need a film I guess. So thatís good. Wish I could open the mpem and see if I can find why the voltage is crap coming out.

    Also the gauge says oil low, this motor has been converted to premix, is there a trick for the oil sensor to not read that way on the gauge?


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  5. #5
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    Re: 2000 rx problems

    Can you clarify for me, for the oil pump block off and on this motor, I only need to install the block off plate and the caps? Iíve read something about other models needing to leave the tank and lines to feed the rotary valve, but does engine does not have that correct?

    I believe I read that the crank case is lubricated with 40 mL of gear oil, that is a sealed unit correct? No need or way to change that oil and less breaking it down for replacement parts?


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  6. #6
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    2000 rx problems

    The previous owner did a hack job on the oil system, just snipped the pump cable and lines and left them open And removed the Tank


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    Last edited by Couchrider; 02-20-2018 at 02:02 PM.

  7. #7
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    Re: 2000 rx problems

    Alrighty then, update time.

    Compression test 125 in the mag cylinder (front?) and 90 in the pto(rear?) pulled the raves and pistons skirts look like butt. Pulled the head, cooling port blocked with sludge, pulled the cylinders they donít look bad, no scoring that I can feel with fingernails or anything, inspected pistons found pto piston top ring seized in the ring land on one side and after prying it out I see that it has a flat spot. Bummer, good thing I pulled it all apart though it was a timebomb anyhow with the head cooling port blocked.

    Next step, off to the machinist to have him check the cylinders to see if they are salvageable. Iíll get a new head as well as Iím sure this one was overheated. Maybe it can be milled?

    Iíd really rather not spend more then I paid for the ski on a crank, Iíll inspect it closer but I might just run it till it Grenades if the cylinders are round still Iíll just re ring it and go if I can get the compression back this way.


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  8. #8
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    Re: 2000 rx problems

    Decided to rebuild it right, it will now be a 1017 big bore. Parts purchased, hopefully on the way soon.

    Not sure if anyone is reading this. Any response letting me know that Iím not waisting my time would be appreciated.

    Looking at cranks now. I have my eye on a crankworks crank from the same seller I got the big bore kit from, but if I canít grab it before someone else does due to funds. Should I go wsm, hot rods, or oem?

    Then, Iíve been looking at the twin pipe setup, I know pipes are really designed around purpose, I donít intend to raise the rev limiter so Iím not looking for top speed, really looking for the low end hole-shot and be able to launch off waves. Would it be worth while to get a twin pipe or should I get a cheaper white pipe. Any gains to drying out the water box on an rx? Remove the baffle/silencer gain anything?


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  9. #9
    PWCToday Regular scensor's Avatar
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    Re: 2000 rx problems

    White pipe/ manifold would be good. If you are not raising the rev limiter don't go for smth more than a white pipe.
    Also crankworks is amazing but a hotrod would be cool as well. Get a solas concord 15/20 and get aftermarket reeds with spacers.
    Moto tashinary or rinaldy. Aftermarket head with changeable domes would be good. There are new ada ones with 49cc domes. That would raise your compression a bit.



    Regards
    Anastasios

  10. #10
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    Re: 2000 rx problems

    Thank you sir. I am keeping an eye out for a deal on a billet head.

    Say you can get a deal on a twin pipe for the same cost as a white pipe, which would net better low end gains?


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