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  1. #11
    PWCToday Regular goingpwc's Avatar
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    Re: GTX 97 bogs during transition from idle to mid-throttle

    hafweighr,
    I agree with you that is why I have painstakenly (is that a word) gone through the carbs as carefully as possible and set the specs according to Mikuni's manual and verifying the correct parts were installed.

    Removing the choke plates with a primer kit should not increase air getting into the carb venture area because the choke shaft openings are plugged with the primer kit fittings.

    What are the carb orifices you are referring to? If you mean all passageways, I used compressed air and blew through all passageways many times thinking there must be some blockage. There are small openings in the bore of the carb that are difficult to get compressed air into because of the tight space, but I did try to get as much compressed into them as possible.
    Thanks for your thoughts.

  2. #12
    Resident Guru hafweigthr's Avatar
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    Re: GTX 97 bogs during transition from idle to mid-throttle

    The return orifice is on the outlet of the PTO carb (inboard of the return tube) on most skis and it should have a small wire ran through it and carbs should be meticulously(painstakenly) cleaned since it only takes a very small piece of dirt to block this. Carbs that I get that people say they cant rebuild or get to work right most times have this orifice blocked.
    The thought that leads to no action is not thought - It is dreaming!!
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  3. #13
    PWCToday Regular goingpwc's Avatar
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    Re: GTX 97 bogs during transition from idle to mid-throttle

    hafweightr,
    I presume you are talking about the fuel return outlet. I know fuel is returning to the tank with out a problem. That is the source for the primer fuel and it gets plenty of fuel for priming. I will check it to be sure.
    Thanks for your input.

  4. #14
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    Re: GTX 97 bogs during transition from idle to mid-throttle

    removing choke shaft and plate will give you more air and less vacuum ...therefore increasing your problem .

    depending on where you installed your primer T and what diameter it has you could have obstructed your fuel supply hose a bit .

    on this specific engine i would check the water regulator valve on top of the waterbox , too

  5. #15
    PWCToday Regular goingpwc's Avatar
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    Re: GTX 97 bogs during transition from idle to mid-throttle

    Finally a solution!!
    I ran across an old article my bill86 regarding issues that caused transitioning hesitation. In the article he stated that carbs that are not properly sealed will cause hesitation problems and described procedures to test leakage in the carbs while they are fully assembled and fuel lines attached. After following the procedures I determined the mag carb was leaking in the fuel pump area. After fixing the leak, and rechecking for other leaks, the carbs were leak free. I took the pwc to the lake and low and behold the transitioning issue was resolved.
    I hope this might help others experiencing the same problem that I dealt with for months.
    Thanks to all for you suggestions.

  6. #16
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    Re: GTX 97 bogs during transition from idle to mid-throttle

    can you post a link to that article tThanks

  7. #17
    PWCToday Regular goingpwc's Avatar
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    Re: GTX 97 bogs during transition from idle to mid-throttle

    1957 Dave,
    I only have it in paper form. I have no idea what the link was. If you really want the info I could retype it in this thread. It is a little lengthy, but I would be willing to do it.

  8. #18
    PWCToday Regular
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    Re: GTX 97 bogs during transition from idle to mid-throttle

    Yes please, thankyou very much Dave

  9. #19
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    Re: GTX 97 bogs during transition from idle to mid-throttle

    thx .....would be interested as well as I had a 97 GTX that gave me a big headache

  10. #20
    PWCToday Regular goingpwc's Avatar
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    Re: GTX 97 bogs during transition from idle to mid-throttle

    1957 Dave and x-track,
    Here is an abbreviated procedure. I left out checking the pop-off pressure and needle and seat test. I think you already know those procedures. Take a deep breathe, here we go.....
    Before taking the carbs apart and fuel lines off the carbs (carbs are on a bench off the engine), put the pop off tester onto the inlet fuel fitting, while blocking the return line fitting. Pump up to 25 psi into the carb. Does it hold 25 psi or leak off? If it leaks off, check fuel pump diaphram, check valves ( dime sized clear plastic discs in the fuel pump block) then the internal fuel filters inside each carb and the pulse line between the engine and fuel pump for holes or leaks in the hose. (15 psi for 947 carbs). Flip the carbs over, remove diaphram cover plates. Look at the needle valve levers in both carbs. Is one or both above the plane of the carb body that surrounds them? If so, holding the needle valve end of the lever down, bend the other end of the lever down so they are level with the carb body or just slightly lower, never more than 1mm below the carb body.If too low bend them up. Be sure the springs are properly installed under levers. Remove jet cover (kidney shaped aluminum block with two phillip screws). Look at the backside of the block for a damaged clear plastic check valve (called a flapper valve). If damaged at all replace flapper valve. Using compressed air with a rubber tipped air gun on the hose, or the tube from the WD40 can, put air or WD40 through the holes under the jets. Look too see if the fluid comes out inside the carb throats. Low Speed jets will come out near bottom at the throttle plate level in the throat of the carb through tiny holes drilled into the throat wall. High Speed fuel channel terminates in the fuel atomizer "bombsight" in the middle of the carb throat below the choke plate level just below the top of the carb about an inch or so. Fluid of air pressue needs to come out there, into the airstream of the inflowing intake air to mix fuel with the air. These channels need to be clear and clean. Remove the two needle adjusters in the side of both carb bodies, shoot some air or WD40 through them, does it come into the carb throat.
    Fully reassemble carbs and secure diaphram covers over diaphrams. NOW DO THIS. Pump air into the carb again like you would be doing a pop off test, but below the point where it pops off (20-25 psi is good) See if it holds pressure. If not, look for external leaks at cover gaskets, fuel pump, and pulse fitting. Use soapy water and spray it onto the carb bodies looking for bubbles. If you do not see any external leaks anywhere your needle and seat valve that checked out good before you installed the diaphram and cover plate, but leaks now, tells you the tip on the backside of the diaphram is resting on the lever enough to crack open the needle valve from the seat. Open the cover again and recheck, bend lever, fix angled rocker pin, or whatever is causing the diaphram tip to rest on the lever.
    Pretty lengthy... I hope this helps resolve your issues. It did mine. My mag carb failed the pressure test because it was leaking. Once fixed it ran great. Be sure you have everything set to the proper specs otherwise this procedure will not resolve those issues.
    Good luck to both of you. If any of this doen't make sense, let me know.

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