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Thread: Hull damage

  1. #1
    PWCToday Newbie
    Join Date
    Aug 2017

    Hull damage

    Well as you can see I have a pretty major issue to deal with. I can't afford to pay for it to go to a shop and can't find one near me anyhow. So I will have to fix it myself. So I'm looking for as much information on hull repair as I can, one area I'm having trouble finding information on is what exactly did Honda use to manufacture their hulls resin, fiber, gel coat.....ect. Any information would be helpful, thanks.

  2. #2
    PWCToday Guru
    Join Date
    Oct 2013

    Re: Hull damage

    There is lots of information online regarding fiberglass repair. I have done lots of repairs of larger boats, a couple of rowing shells, as well as fabrication of fiberglass parts for various things. I recommend you use epoxy resin rather than polyester. Epoxy costs more but is stronger. If you use epoxy, you can cut a piece of foam as a backer piece to put inside the hull to keep the patch and resin from falling into the hole. If you use polyester it will melt the foam. Epoxy also is not as bad for your nose. It will be best if you can flip it over and have the damage on the top.

    The basic process is to grind away all of the damaged material. Use coarse sanding disks so the finished surface is rough. Feather the edges of the damage back to you can easily see each layer of the laminations. Each layer should show at least 1/2". Yours appears to have 7 layers, so your will feather the damaged edges about 3 1/2". Then cut a piece of fiberglass for each layer so the profile is close to that layer. Each piece of glass will be larger that the previous layer.

    Assuming you are going to work from the outside, Cut and fit a piece of foam to fit inside the boat to hold the inside shape that you want. Hold the foam in place however you can, but be sure it will not move when you start to work.

    Before you start laying up the glass, WAX the rest of the boat REALLY GOOD. Leave the wax haze on the boat. If you drip resin on it, the resin will just peel off after it cures. Mask off the area around the patch. Get some cheap brushes and mixing cups to throwaway after each layer.

    Mix up a batch of epoxy and try your hand at the first layer. Let it cure then try the second layer. , 3rd, etc. when you are finished you will have to shape the contour to match the existing.

    There is a way to do the repair from the INSIDE, but it is a bit more involved and you need a boat JUST LIKE yours, so you can make a mold of that area of the hull. This is more time consuming but makes a better looking repair.

    I had a book at one time that explained it in detail, but I cannot find it right now..

    Good luck.
    2, 1998 TS 770 L, restored and running great. (Except for the one with engine that SBT put the WRONG crankshaft bearing into and is now sitting as I collect repair parts)

  3. #3
    PWCToday Guru
    Join Date
    Oct 2013

    Re: Hull damage

    Here is a link to the same info that was in the book.. very good info..

    2, 1998 TS 770 L, restored and running great. (Except for the one with engine that SBT put the WRONG crankshaft bearing into and is now sitting as I collect repair parts)

  4. #4
    PWCToday Newbie Deto-Nate's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Maine, US

    Re: Hull damage

    That's a great link, thank you.
    2001 XLT1200 (sold):
    1985 JS550

  5. #5
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home JR IN JAX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Blog Entries

    Re: Hull damage

    That can be easily fixed externally with West Systems Epoxy and maybe a little bit of Marine Tex. Get a gel coat tint kit with just black tint to make the final coat black to match the gel coat. The ski will have to be turned on its side to give you as flat a repair are as possible. you will need a good belt or disc sander with 80 grit paper and sand to a 30* slope. You can then start with a strip of carefully cut cloth [crooked cuts will unravel] to cover the entire sanded area. The next strips can be applied while the prior coats are still sticky which will hold the new layers in place. Marine tex will easily correct any pits or dents and be covered with a last coat of black tinted epoxy. Like was said, waxing the gel coat around the damage will keep the epoxy from sticking if dripped. The most important tip is carefully cutting the cloth so it does not unravel....
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