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  1. #11
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home Chester's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Vancouver, BC Canada
    Age
    55
    Posts
    3,064

    Re: 95 SL750 - my piston is toast - 3rd time

    Quote Originally Posted by Myself View Post
    You can see the marks on the wrist pin made by the rollers of the wrist pin bearing...
    Yup. If the small end looks like that, you can bet the big end is just as bad. Get an SBT engine.

    Chester
    Speed is very expensive. How fast do you want to spend?

    Stand up:
    98 SXi-Pro

    Couches:

    96 XP
    86 X2

  2. #12
    PWCToday Regular
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Calgary
    Posts
    71

    Re: 95 SL750 - my piston is toast - 3rd time

    Quote Originally Posted by wmazz View Post
    What else was did you reuse despite the rust damage?

    Did you install the piston with the arrow pointing backwards?

    Have you installed a primer in the last couple years. A choke screw could have
    been sitting inside the reeds.
    You asked if I installed the piston backwards - I installed it with the arrow pointing to the front - is this not correct? As for a primer, what is that? The damage occurred on the right side of the piston - I assume this is the intake side and the left is the exhaust side - is this correct? thx

  3. #13
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home wmazz's Avatar
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    Jul 2013
    Location
    Riverside, CA
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    57
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    6

    Re: 95 SL750 - my piston is toast - 3rd time

    Quote Originally Posted by DanDaMan View Post
    As for a primer, what is that? The damage occurred on the right side of the piston - I assume this is the intake side and the left is the exhaust side - is this correct? thx
    A primer is often used when the engine is hard starting. To install a primer, most people
    remove the choke. I thought it was possible a choke screw managed to stay in the carb
    and dropped out while running.

    Quote Originally Posted by Benflynn View Post
    Something got in there, I'd look to see of the reeds and screws are all there, maybe a crank bearing roller,
    something from somewhere is in that cyl, and prob pieces of it are still down in the crank case
    +1

    Benflynn is right, you need to inspect the reeds, throttle, and choke screws to see
    if one is missing.

    Quote Originally Posted by DanDaMan View Post
    You asked if I installed the piston backwards - I installed it with the arrow pointing to the front - is this not correct?
    Yes, you are correct.


    Bill M.

    Dan, were you in the habit of blowing out all of the water inside the exhaust
    before you took the ski home? I normally do it while on the boat ramp, so all
    the water is at the rear of the ski. Then I open the water drains and let the
    water out of the hull, and I leave it that way all the way home.

    If I am at a place where it is hot, I leave the seat off to let the water
    evaporate, if not, I use a shop vac to vacuum out the water inside the hull.

    If you store the ski inside a garage, I remove the seat and lay a towel over
    the engine compartment while in storage.


    If you brought your ski into the shop I worked at, we would have insisted to
    replace the crank shaft, and if you did not want to spend the money, we would
    have let you take it home because rust damage like yours is a ticking time bomb
    that no one knows when it will go off.

    If it was a 95' SeaDoo, it would have blown by now, and costed ~$2500 to repair
    using oem parts. BM
    Last edited by wmazz; 07-24-2017 at 04:38 PM.
    Horsepower == Speed, RPM != Speed



  4. #14
    PWCToday Regular
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Calgary
    Posts
    71

    Re: 95 SL750 - my piston is toast - 3rd time

    Been doing some googlin on how to flush the crankcase without full disassembly or removal. Read that one trick is to pour a gallon of mineral spirits into the bottom case and turn over the engine to stir things up - this should cause the debris to float to the top - it said to then remove all the mineral spirits.

    So my question (as a newbie to engine work) - are each of the 3 cylinder bottom ends independant or joined - if I pour mineral spirits down the one crank case which I have the cylinder off on, will that mineral spirits join up into the other 2 cylinders or is it tight to each cylinder. If each cylinder is independant, after I try this mineral spirits trick and then suck it out, what should I put down the crank case and how much? I assume the crank case bottom is supposed to have fuel oil mix - is this right - how much should I pour down it before putting the cylinder jug back on?

    Oh, currently I have what appears as fuel/oil mix in the crank case (for the cylinder jug I removed) but I also see what droplets. Should I be concerned about the water droplets? Any ideas of how water droplets got in there - could it be due to the piston having gaps/holes/damage thus allowing some of the cooling water to get into the combustion area?

    Thanks

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