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  1. #1
    PWCToday Newbie
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    Jul 2017
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    Daytona 1000 hard to start when hot, fouls plugs

    Hello all, Newbie to the site, old fart to jet skiing. I have a '97 Daytona 1000. It fires up when cold or has been setting for awhile but if I shut it off for 5 minutes and go to start it, it soaks the plugs, and won't start. It had a problem of filling with fuel if it set on the bank, rocking back and forth, so I put a shut off in the fuel line. I'm not very experienced with carbs but am wondering if the pop off has something in it. Letting what fuel is in the line to seep into the carbs. Am I right in assuming the pop off is like the float pin in a bowl carb? When it starts it runs great. Could have a little more pep at take off but not bad. I am thinking of taking the carbs apart and cleaning them, but I don't know what to set them to when putting them back together. Thanks for any help. I'll add that we just moved to upstate South Carolina and that my wifes Yamaha waverunner seems to be running richer also. I wouldn't think elevation change would be that much to matter?
    Last edited by tray; 07-17-2017 at 10:00 AM.

  2. #2
    Frequent Poster Associated98's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Cottage Grove, MN
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    221

    Re: Daytona 1000 hard to start when hot, fouls plugs

    If it fills with gas when sitting then its your needle and seat. The needle isnt fully seating (great description i know) and allowing fuel to dump straight down the carbs. Unfortunately im not the greatest with carb tuning myself.
    Own:
    99' TS770R
    98' TS1000R
    97' Daytona 1000
    Owned:
    94' Montego (my first) sold
    95' Daytona sold
    95' Daytona parted out
    95' Barracuda sold
    96' Montego sold
    96' Daytona (the one that got away...) sold
    96' Monte Carlo 900 sold
    97' Daytona 1000 clean and beautiful. You will be missed.

  3. #3
    PWCToday Newbie
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    Re: Daytona 1000 hard to start when hot, fouls plugs

    I can't download the manual for some reason. Could someone post the page on carb settings please?

  4. #4
    I dream skis
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    PA
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    57
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    742

    Re: Daytona 1000 hard to start when hot, fouls plugs

    "Pop-off" is the opening point of the needle from the seat, usually done slowly with air pressure. As A-98 says, needle and seat time. Use ONLY original Mikuni parts. Read lots of times about guys using aftermarket parts, only to have disappointment and have to do it all over again.

  5. #5
    PWCToday Newbie
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    Re: Daytona 1000 hard to start when hot, fouls plugs

    I have ran 2 tankfuls of high octane gas with a can of Seafoam in each tank through it. Seems to be getting better. I'm going to pull the carbs and clean them. Is it possible to do that and not screw up the pop off? I have taken apart a hundred float bowl carbs and cleaned and adjusted. Just not very many diaphrams, and none that have 3 and need to be synchronized. I am assuming the needle and seat aka pop off is regulated by the tension of the spring? So cleaning would not affect that?
    Last edited by tray; 07-20-2017 at 08:57 PM.

  6. #6
    Frequent Poster
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Ohio
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    274

    Re: Daytona 1000 hard to start when hot, fouls plugs

    Get set up and check the pop off pressures BEFORE you take the carbs apart. This checking process itself will tell you if the needle/seat is leaking. I have a manual for 1999. Not sure if they are the same..


    1100carb settings.jpg
    2, 1998 TS 770 L, restored and running great. (Except for the one with engine that SBT put the WRONG crankshaft bearing into and is now sitting as I collect repair parts)

  7. #7
    PWCToday Newbie
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    Re: Daytona 1000 hard to start when hot, fouls plugs

    Is it possible to make a pop off tester? I have a gauge for it. Only ones I have seen are on ebay for $57.

  8. #8
    Frequent Poster
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    Oct 2013
    Location
    Ohio
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    274

    Re: Daytona 1000 hard to start when hot, fouls plugs

    Easy to make. All you need to do it to pressurize the fuel inlet and be able to measure that pressure accurately.

    I use a compound gauge that measures vacuum to 30 PSI max that is sensitive enough to easily 1/2 pound increments, just because I had it from automotive work. You need some kind of pump, bicycle pump is fine. I actually use a good quality air pressure regulator hooked up to the air in my shop. I can turn the dial slowly and watch the pressure climb. Much easier than working a pump while watching gauge. I also have a valve between the carb inlet and the regulator so I can pressurize BELOW pop off, then shut the valve, and watch for pressure drop. That checks the needle/seat for leaking.
    2, 1998 TS 770 L, restored and running great. (Except for the one with engine that SBT put the WRONG crankshaft bearing into and is now sitting as I collect repair parts)

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