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  1. #1
    PWCToday Guru E350's Avatar
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    Crank No Start No Spark Troubleshooting Decision Tree '94 701 SN SJ

    Towed my wife in today on her 1994 701cm square nose Superjet. Crank no start. No spark.

    Spark plugs are wet with fuel. New spark plugs, same crank no start. No spark. HEI spark plug tester and regular spark plug tester, no spark.

    I recently rebuilt the distributor in my '95 Ford Bronco 5.8L after I diagnosed that the stator was not sending the PIP signal to the Ignition Control Module to signal the coil to fire (even after the PCM was taken out of the loop by removing the SPOUT (spark output)) jumper from the circuit.

    I am not an engineer. I am dumb as a box of rocks. But troubleshootmyvehicle.com and autodiagnostics.com allowed me to methodically follow a troubleshooting decision tree to isolate the ignition problem without throwing parts at it.

    I own the Shop Manual for the 94-95 Superjet, but it is rudimentary at best. So, who of the engineers among you have a troubleshooting decision tree for diagnosing a crank no start no spark condition in a '94 701cm Superjet?
    Last edited by E350; 07-08-2017 at 12:29 AM.

  2. #2
    Top Dog Benflynn's Avatar
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    Re: Crank No Start No Spark Troubleshooting Decision Tree '94 701 SN SJ

    Unplug the kill switch and try, if not...id check to see if coil was getting a trigger, so I'd look for some sort of wave on the coil power and ground, would look like fluctuating on fluke meter, if not I'd look for power to cdi, if so I'd prob ohm the coil across plug wires and coil wires, of good I'd suspect trigger coil on stator, so ohm it, if good I'd check the output, anoth wave sig of some sort all the time checking for values in the manual. Only time I've had no spark it's been kill switch or cdi.

  3. #3
    PWCToday Guru E350's Avatar
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    Re: Crank No Start No Spark Troubleshooting Decision Tree '94 701 SN SJ

    Benflynn et al. I verified where the "engine stop switch" plug is in the engine compartment. I see that it is a different circuit than the start switch, so I get that it could permit the engine to crank but not let the primary side of the ignition circuit to tell the coil to send a spark.

    BUT I cannot figure out how to disconnect the engine stop switch plug to remove it from the circuit! I have broken way too many plugs in my earlier days to try to muscle it. A description on how to unplug the friggin' connection would be greatly appreciated.

  4. #4
    Frequent Poster Sev1n's Avatar
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    Re: Crank No Start No Spark Troubleshooting Decision Tree '94 701 SN SJ

    its just a plug, the side coming down from the bars is the male end, it slides into the harness end,the is a little tab on the female side to lift and the plug slides apart also be aware if you have that disconeected and you start the ski you will have to use the choke or something to shut it off as the killswitch is bypassed.
    after checking kill switch i check coil, Then stator and trigger, 9/10 its the kill switch or coil.

  5. #5
    PWCToday Guru E350's Avatar
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    Re: Crank No Start No Spark Troubleshooting Decision Tree '94 701 SN SJ

    Thanks Guys: For those of you who don't know, the engine stop switch connector plug is between the engine and the rear bulk head and has a white and a black wire. And although it looks like it should come apart with a 1/4" flat bladed screwdriver from the back of the female side, it does not. Rather, you lift a tab on the male side with an 1/8" flat bladed screwdriver.

    I disconnected the engine stop switch and it still cranks no start no spark.

    So now I get to read about testing the coil apparently.

    I stopped on the SJ for now and just got my wife's old '88 Kawasaki 650cc X2 going to ride as an alternate today. It does not have a bilge pump, so I hope the pump shaft seal is ok...

  6. #6
    PWCToday Guru E350's Avatar
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    Re: Crank No Start No Spark Troubleshooting Decision Tree '94 701 SN SJ

    I take back what I said about the Service Manual being "rudimentary." In fact it has all that you need, but with more diagrams and fewer words. Fewer words and more diagrams is a good thing.

    The Service Manual's direction on how to test the coil is simple and easy to understand.

    Now I just need to opn the CDI box. But I am having trouble splitting it apart. ANY SUGGESTIONS ON HOW TO OPEN THE CDI BOX?

  7. #7
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home
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    Re: Crank No Start No Spark Troubleshooting Decision Tree '94 701 SN SJ

    A big Phillips bit and a battery drill works great if you use too small of a bid at a strip the screws. You could have set of plug come loose in the e-box but I'm going to guess it's either your pulse coill or pick up trigger

  8. #8
    PWCToday Guru E350's Avatar
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    Re: Crank No Start No Spark Troubleshooting Decision Tree '94 701 SN SJ

    Thanks driftmaster! Yes, I used a No. 3 Phillips bit on a cordless drill to take the zillions of screws off the back of the box. But it won't just pull apart. Remember it likely hasn't been apart since it was manufactured in 1994, so now that I have removed the screws, should I use a razor blade as a putty knife to pry it apart? The gasket is welded by time into both sides of the box. I don't want to destroy the gasket and I don't want to mar any mating surfaces.

  9. #9
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home
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    Re: Crank No Start No Spark Troubleshooting Decision Tree '94 701 SN SJ

    Been in salt then, good luck!

  10. #10
    PWCToday Guru E350's Avatar
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    Re: Crank No Start No Spark Troubleshooting Decision Tree '94 701 SN SJ

    Nope no salt. Just my stupidity. To prove that I am, in fact, as dumb as a box of rocks. I broke the seal on the electrical box gasket with razor blades and thin putty knives (destroying the gasket in the process - new one on order from Blowsion) and it still wouldn't come apart.

    So, a few more seconds staring at the diagram in the excellent Yamaha Service Manual, and dang it showed that there were two screws I hadn't removed, one under each of the stainless steel hull brackets. So, loosen the 12mm bracket nuts and spin the brackets out of the way to access those two screws, remove the screws, and the box split apart just fine.

    Only a few drops of condensation moisture in there on the case wall. Otherwise, looks beautiful.

    Removed and tested the resistance of the coil per Service Manual, results below:

    Primary: 0.1 (within spec)
    Secondary: - - - - - M (unreadable?)

    When I touch the two test leads together on my Blue Sea digital multimeter in the Ohm setting I get "0." So, I have no idea what "- - - - - M" means but I assume that it means that the resistance on the Secondary coil is out of spec.

    So, a red lead Yamaha coil is ordered and on the way.

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