pxctoday

» Log in

User Name:

Password:

Not a member yet?
Register Now!

» Find OEM Parts

» Jobs

» wallpapers

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 25
  1. #11
    PWCToday Guru Bob Gruen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Atlanta, Ga
    Posts
    496

    Re: Rebuild: 2 550SXs

    The pump and underside are finished. I swapped out the ride plate's hex bolts in favor of screws (which the early boats came with) and strategically siliconed the seams and other imperfections smooth. Of note is the triangular holes that open the pump cavity. My understanding is that they were added to reduce the pump sucking air and improve hook-up. Not really sure how, but the early hulls do not have them so they must have been added to improve performance. They are supposed to be left open.

    IMG_20170308_101418556.jpg

    Next is to sand and paint the nose. The plan is to replace the missing decal with spray paint, shooting the color, wet-sanding, and clear-coating. Some have posted that traditional spray paint will not hold up, but so much of paint's durability is in how it was applied that I am willing to do this experiment. I do not expect the color to match the decals very well, I just want something better than the missing decal.

  2. #12
    I dream skis Masonboswell's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Gallatin, TN
    Age
    41
    Posts
    745

    Re: Rebuild: 2 550SXs

    Looking great, Bob!

  3. #13
    PWCToday Guru scottw090's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Huntsville AL
    Posts
    348

    Re: Rebuild: 2 550SXs

    Those fins have a pretty big impact on the way the ski turns. Night and Day on my buddy's 650's. Interested to see how painting your decals back on turns out. I worked on a Polaris last year where I actually taped off the decals, sprayed the rest and peeled the tape off to reveal the original decals! exact opposite here!

  4. #14
    PWCToday Guru Bob Gruen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Atlanta, Ga
    Posts
    496

    Re: Rebuild: 2 550SXs

    It has an original decal on one side that I did tape off. Now I am trying to figure out how long I should wait to tape off and spray the first layer of pink. It will be just a garden variety enamel being painted over the rattle can "Appliance Epoxy" (which is really just enamel). The appliance epoxy says to overcoat before 30 minutes or after 24 hours. I may wait another day to make it 48 before I start to tape over it. If I do I will break the glaze with some light grit sandpaper before I spray the next layer.

    PaintedNose.1.jpg

    PaintedNose.2.jpg

    I can reach all four bolts that hold the fins on without removing the ride plate. I'll try it both ways back to back to see which carves better. I am guessing without them. I may also cut a relief hole too. The older stock ones had them under the steering nozzle pivot, but a lot of aftermarket plates had the more forward than that.
    Last edited by Bob Gruen; 03-09-2017 at 10:21 AM.

  5. #15
    PWCToday Guru Bob Gruen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Atlanta, Ga
    Posts
    496

    Fake decal

    They are around, we've all seen them ... JS ski's where the nose has been repaired and repainted, often loosing the decals in the process. A new decal kit can set you back a decent chunk o' money, so what's a girl to do?

    Well Nancy, this is what I did:

    Bought some spray paint, including UV protecting clear coat.
    IMG_20170311_131155125.jpg

    After letting the white dry for a few days I used the decal on the left side to make a template and lay out tape on the right. I broke the glaze of the white paint with a little 400 grit sandpaper and shot a red base, then some pink. I let it dry overnight, scuffed it and laid in the tape for the metallic blue.
    BosePainting.jpg

    An hour after I shot the metallic blue I unwrapped everything then laid fresh tape out a little larger than the color and shot a few coats of clear. Yes there is a feint line, but there is on decals too.
    IMG_20170311_124742438.jpg IMG_20170311_125030384.jpg

    So the big question is color-match. It does not match the original super bright flo-red that can still seen from where the decal was protected by the hull brace, but it does match the pink that these decals have faded to pretty well. I wish I would have free handed the blue instead of copying the decal, adding more blue would have looked better.
    IMG_20170311_162027864.jpg

    Only time will tell if this rattle can method will hold up. It is on the nose so it will see it's fair share of bumps and wear. I would love to do the stock decals in Kaw green instead of flo-red, but I don't know if I will ever take rattle can painting that far. I might be more inclined to just buy custom decals in that event.

    Now that I am done with the hull I can finally put this boat back together.

  6. #16
    Frequent Poster Riverrat650sx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Tuscaloosa,AL
    Age
    33
    Posts
    234

    Re: Rebuild: 2 550SXs

    Looks pretty damn good to be rattle canned! I'm waiting on a ride report to see how the truing the chine really works. I might have to do it to my 550. I work in a body shop and paint too. Kinda funny how a few little things can change how something performs!

  7. #17
    PWCToday Guru Bob Gruen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Atlanta, Ga
    Posts
    496

    Jettrim: Dash Pad Cover

    I bought a Jettrim kit for the 550 and when I inquired about the dash pad I was told that they will include a cover if the buyer asks for it. I guess because the cover is long gone from most skis it's not included by default. I do have the cover for my ski, but the plastic hinge was about 1/2 gone so I planned to cut it off and replace it with a stainless piano hinge. I asked it to be included and was admittedly a little disappointed as it has no piping to dress it up, it is just a piece of cloth with a stitch on it. After installing it I understand why it is so simple, getting piping to align while wrapping the edges tightly around would be very difficult. It definitely needs to be wrapped around to the back. If you just glued something to the face of the cover it would fail in no time. And hey, it was tossed in for free. Now that it is installed I am totally satisfied with it.

    The cover, as delivered:
    DashCover.1.jpg


    I roughed up the back plastic and removed some of the dead material from the front with sandpaper and cleaned it with acetone. I covered both surfaces with Dap Weldwood (red label) and dropped the pad onto the cover, aligning the top stitch along the shoulders of the pad with my thumbs as I did it. I then worked the edges around making a few strategic cuts to remove material that would be in the way.

    Once the cover was mounted I turned my attention to the hinge. I had already removed some plastic that was left over from the failed hinge to make room for the piano hinge. I drilled out 5 holes for rivets, worked some silicone adhesive into the fabric on the back side of the pad, and glued and riveted the hinge to the pad, pinching some of the fabric between the pad and the hinge.
    DashCover.2.jpg DashCover.3.jpg

    Finally, I affixed the pad bracket to the piano hinge with double sided tape and three rivets. I flattened the rivets with a punch to make them more flush, but I do believe they will be covered by the base pad.
    DashCover.4.jpg

    I went back a few hours later and reworked the cover back down onto the pad. I could not detect any pulling free from the pad so it should be solid once cured. Now onto the pad kit itself...

  8. #18
    PWCToday Guru Bob Gruen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Atlanta, Ga
    Posts
    496

    Jettrim mat kit, part 1

    I managed to get the first chunk of work done to get the new mat kit mounted. The first step of removing the original mat and cleaning the deck took about 45 minutes. To do this I snapped a razor blade in a pair of needle nose vice grips and worked it under the mat while pulling up. Took about 15 minutes or so. Then another 30 minutes working the razor with some acetone to get the glue up.

    RemoveMat.jpg

    The 550SX kit comes with a set of filler pads to fill in the voids in the gunnels. I glued these in with DAP contact cement then took a long razor and trimmed them flush. The voids they fill are tapered while the filler pads are not. I also knocked the top corner off of the wedge (so the pad will round over it better) and glued it down.

    IMG_20170608_232445409.jpg

    Something I have yet to determine is how I want to mount the under pad. Not sure if I should end it at the wedge's leading edge or wrap it up over the wedge and end it at the trailing edge. The wedge itself is much denser than the pad, but the thickness does give it an overall softness. I guess I am leery about how the softer under pad would hold up attached to the contours of the wedge.

  9. #19
    PWCToday Guru Bob Gruen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Atlanta, Ga
    Posts
    496

    Jettrim mat kit, part 2

    Finished up my Jettrim mat kit this weekend.

    Doing the corner pads required a minor cut and overlap. I had a bit of difficulty in getting the pad to stick across the back due to the hump molded into the hull. If I had to do it again I would cut a section of the thick under-pad away to give the hump a slot to fit into.

    Jettrim.01.jpg Jettrim.02.jpg

    I fit the side panels next by starting at the front corner. I should have pushed it forward a bit more than I did as I have a little more overhang at the back than I think there should be. I covered parts of the side panels that might get glue on them with 2" wide painter's tape.

    Jettrim.12.jpg

    Moving on to the dash panel I used a bit of wax paper on the back of the ears that kept if from sticking as I mounted the center. Once the center was stuck down I peeled off the wax paper, pinched the side 'wings' and pressed them into the corner then worked them into the contours. Because I going to run the dash cover I also cut out the cover for access to the screw inserts.

    Jettrim.11.jpg Jettrim.10.jpg Jettrim.09.jpg

    I am also going to run an underpad but I want to be able to remove the dash cover should I need to. I therefore cut a section off of the back of the underpad and glued it to the base of the dash cover. The underpad itself was not cut very square so I grabbed my carpenters square and a razor and cleaned up the front end for a better fit. Before I glued down the 1" wedge I razed off the corner to make it easier to fit the pad. I went ahead and covered the wedge with the underpad but cut it off at the rear base of the wedge.

    Jettrim.08.jpg Jettrim.07.jpg Jettrim.06.jpg Jettrim.05.jpg

    I finally was able to glue down the main pad. I covered the end of the hull (where the underpad isn't) with the wax paper which allowed me to get the pad pretty well situated at the end of the wedge. Once it was well bonded I removed the wax paper and wrapped the rest of the top pad under the hull, bonding it in place. One thing I forgot to do was to remove the backing from the top pad at the hull eyelet. I wanted to run an aluminum fitting back there to make it easy to tie down to my trailer. Because it still has the backing back there I am a little leery about putting an eyelet back there as the one I have does not have much of a lip on it. It might be better to leave the hole covered and just throw a strap over the gunnels.

    Jettrim.03.jpgJettrim.03a.jpg

    When the whole project was finished I strapped a 2x4 across the end of the rear gunnels to press it all together while the contact cement cures, which is 24 hours.

  10. #20
    PWCToday Guru Bob Gruen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Atlanta, Ga
    Posts
    496

    Resealing the Motor

    Now that everything is back together I decided to re-seal the motor. Although the motor looks great from the outside, it is a '92 and appears to be factory sealed. As an upgrade, I bought 3 OEM double lipped seals. The motor does not have to come fully apart, only seals and a sealant for the cases are required. I use Yamabond.

    SealReplacement.01.jpg SealReplacement.10.jpg

    Load the rear cylinder with the correct amount of rope to get the crank at 90 degrees from TDC and use a chain wrench to remove the coupler. It is standard direction threads BTW.
    SealReplacement.02.jpg

    Use a steering wheel puller, breaker bar, and crowbar to remove the flywheel.
    SealReplacement.03.jpg SealReplacement.04.jpg

    Although the stater underneath looks factory new, a bendix gear must have let go in the past because there is a significant amount of shrapnel under the flywheel. Luckily, it must have not run much like this because the coils show no damage at all.
    SealReplacement.05.jpg SealReplacement.06.jpg

    Finally into the crank case. Remove the stater screws, the bolts at the edge of the cases, and the galvanized bolts or nuts on the bottom of the cases. If your cases are bolted together you will not need to loosen the stater wire seals, but if you have the older, studded design you will need more slack to get the stater off of the nose of the crank.
    SealReplacement.07.jpg SealReplacement.08.jpg SealReplacement.09.jpg

    It is a good thing I tore this engine down; it would not have lasted long. Below is one of the seals that has failed. Notice how corroded the OUTER edge is. I want to prevent this from happening in the future. Options include gasket prep on the seal's edge, paint the seal area on the cases, or grease on the edge of the seal before installation.
    FailedSeal.jpg

    This is definitely a low hour engine. That being said it sat for a period of time with water trapped in the seals that has caused pitting on the steel sections of the crank. I have ordered a pair of SKF Speedi Sleeves (# 99114) for the front and rear inner seals. The stainless collar for the rear outer seal is fine. I wonder if these seals were not greased when the engine was assembled.
    Pitting.jpg

    I have also decided to send the head and flywheel out for machining. Once this boat goes back together I don't want to mess with it anymore.
    Attached Images Attached Images

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.2.0