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  1. #1
    I dream skis Bob Gruen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Atlanta, Ga
    Posts
    503

    Drying out a cast ProTec pipe

    After a week down in Florida I popped the head off of my WB1 to install my new ADA girdled head and I found...

    Rear cylinder totally rusted over. Cylinder, crank, even surface rust on the reed cage. I managed to get the piston out and I think the cylinders will be OK with just a hone, but I will need a rebuilt crank and new piston set.

    So how did it happen? I am so meticulous about flushing and cleaning my skis... As near as I can figure I have had an un-diagnosed problem for some time now. After idling in from a no wake zone and sitting on the beach sometimes the engine takes time to clear out when I get back on and past the no wake buoy. I think what is happening it that the water injected into the exhaust stream in the headpipe is falling down and building up in the manifold and actually making it's way into the cylinder and even lower end. The thing about the ProTec pipe design is that the water is injected right above the manifold, and although an engine revving will blow the water forward an idling engine might not. Being on an incline (boat ramp) would make this worse. If I got saltwater in the lower end when loading the ski back onto the trailer nothing short of riding it for a minute or so would really clear it out. I did a search but didn't find any complaints on this issue. Anyone else run into it?

    The solution would seem to be to dry the pipe out by plugging the hole with a small stainless steel button head screw. My only concern would be the overall pipe temp. How much will the temp go up when I plug the hole? I believe I have the original rubber coupler, which is very hard and a PITA to get off of the pipe (which is a good thing). Should I upgrade to silicone? I am also upgrading to dual cooling, one side off the head will go overboard while the other will go to the headpipe, then full volume to the stinger / waterbox (No T, I don't want to cook the stock box).

    Anything else to be concerned about?

    Bob

  2. #2
    I dream skis Bob Gruen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Atlanta, Ga
    Posts
    503

    Re: Drying out a cast ProTec pipe

    Engine Rebuilt, pipe is now dried out. I also built my own lord mounts using stainless tube and shock ends that I sources from the local auto parts store. I need to work on it because the pipe body does not flex enough.

    IMG_20160907_191948_089.jpgIMG_20160907_192014_190.jpg

    Pre-Build Pics...

    IMG_20160905_152321_074.jpgIMG_20160905_152338_120.jpgIMG_20160905_152409_121.jpg

    Needed to get the flywheel and coupler off but the lock was already off. My solution (because the crank was bad) involved putting a pair of 4x4s on the block and running a thick Allen wrench through the rod.

    CrankRemoval.jpg
    Last edited by Bob Gruen; 09-07-2016 at 10:05 PM.

  3. #3
    Frequent Poster
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    NC NE
    Age
    28
    Posts
    194

    Re: Drying out a cast ProTec pipe

    How did the dry setup run?

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