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Thread: 750 X-2 Rebuild

  1. #1
    I dream skis Bob Gruen's Avatar
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    750 X-2 Rebuild

    A few years ago I bought a 750 X2 on an impulse. It was a bit of a mess so I bought it with the intention of redoing it. Half way into redoing it life got really busy, but I finally got to the point where I could work on it again.

    MyX-2.001.jpg

    Description: Small Pin / Green head 750 with dual stock carbs and Factory Pipe Blaster exhaust and full 2" exhaust. 1/2" cooling. Pelican case electric box. Goal: Complete "Sano" installation, everything mechanically "Perfect"; an example of how to do it right; stainless and non-corrosive materials only (salt water friendly), maintain hull flotation (I once 'sunk' my first ski and understand the importance of the hull flotation foam).

    First thing: I am a big fan or routing hoses and cables properly. I use generic rubber coated stainless clamps to route everything. Detailed pics of the hose and cable routing while the engine is out follow.

    The 1/2 to twin 3/8ths SS inlet 'T' hose barb fitting (sourced from e-bay, beer brewing) and clamped cooling line.

    Engine Plumbing.1.jpg

    Detail of modded manifold, lord mount removed for Blaster pipe.
    Engine Plumbing.2.jpg


    Front of engine. Not pictured: shortened throttle cable and electric cables from handlebars.
    Engine Plumbing.3.jpg

    Although a lot of people do not like them, I use K&N filters on all of my boats. To do this on a dual carb. X2 the right hull brace must be moved back. A pair of brackets made out of aluminum accomplishes this:

    RelocateBrace.1.jpgRelocateBrace.2.jpgRelocateBrace.3.jpg

    1/2" thin walled stainless cooling line can also be seen in the pic above.

    Next Up: Exhausted.

  2. #2
    I dream skis Bob Gruen's Avatar
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    Re: 750 X-2 Rebuild

    I bought a TDR 2" waterbox that I intend to use along with a Factory Pipe Blaster pipe. I detailed my original mounting on the Blaster Pipe Basics thread in the X-2 forum. Since then I have moved the waterbox an additional 1/3" to the left and cut and bead rolled the waterbox inlet and exit to make more room for the Blaster chamber.

    WaterBox.jpg

    My plan was to use a smooth radius-ed stainless mandrel bent pipe to connect the Blaster chamber to the waterbox. The problem is I had to cut the waterbox side back to the point where the slice was no longer round. I had no confidence it would stay on without a pronounced bead and I have no way to put a bead in stainless steel.

    JPipe.1.jpg

    Instead I bought a high temp silicone elbow, soaped it up, and inserted the stainless pipe to smooth out the bend and protect the silicone hose from the exhaust.

    JPipe.2.jpgJPipe.3.jpg

    This way the two ends of the J pipe are on bead-rolled tubes. I added a pair of secondary clamps to close the pucker that the two mismatched radiuses created. The upshot of all of this is that with a few strategic dents in my pipe I have a 1/4" gap between the pipe and the edge of the hood seal.

    Onto: E-Box

  3. #3
    I dream skis Bob Gruen's Avatar
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    Re: 750 X-2 Rebuild

    There is a problem when putting a 750 into an X-2 in that there is no good way of dealing with the electric box. There are a couple of different 750 E-boxes that are all pretty big, heavy, and cumbersome. Usually guys will just strap them to the fuel tank or battery, or of you have the small E-Box you could mount it on the RadDudes surf brace, but then you have to take out the flotation Styrofoam from the hood, and that is a non-starter for me.

    My solution comes in the form of a $25 Pelican 1120 case. The plan is pretty simple: Do the standard battery tray mod by over sizing three of the four large screws and drill and insert stainless flat head screws into all of the mini-bosses under the tray.

    BattTrayMod.jpg E-Stack.1.jpg

    Drill out holes across the hook section of the tall opposing hook bosses and attach a rubber strap (Ace Hardware / tarp strap) via 1/4" x 1 1/14" stainless clevis pins secured with cotter rings (West Marine).

    E-Stack.2.jpg

    Then put a shorter battery in the tray with one factory strap holding it hooked diagonally. I then cut a rubber pad that was the same thickness as the strap and laid it on top.

    E-Stack.3.jpg

    Finally the Pelican case goes on top with the tarp strap holding it on.

    E-Stack.4.jpg

    Test fitting it in the ski shows some interesting possibilities.

    E-Stack.5.jpg

    First, it would be very easy to add some stainless locating brackets from the pelican case to the bolts in the hull that hold the fuel line straps. Second the height of the stack comes right to the hood Styrofoam, so I could also glue a PVC liner to the blow out plug hole and bolt a large locating puck to the top of the pelican case to use the hood Styrofoam to help keep it tight (I already drilled out a hole in the foam from the inverted dome to the blow out plug tube so the blow out plug will function if needed).

    The plan is to then cut sections off of the factory E-Box to use on the pelican case. I started by cutting the corner off of the E-Box and making an internal mounting clamp for the large factory cap on the pelican case.

    E-Box boss.1.jpgE-Box boss.2.jpg

    I will be cutting off the threaded sections for the gland fittings to use as nuts inside the pelican case. I believe I need to pass at least five wires, so I will need two gland fittings for wires and two for the spark plug leads. I'm still trying to figure out how to mount the coil, bridge rectifier, and control box securely in the pelican case. I really don't want bolt heads sticking out of the top of the box, but that is the way it will probably end up.
    Last edited by Bob Gruen; 07-18-2016 at 12:06 AM.

  4. #4
    PWCToday Guru alaski's Avatar
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    Re: 750 X-2 Rebuild

    Can't you just have a floating platform that will press-fit and stabilise when you close the box?

  5. #5
    I dream skis Bob Gruen's Avatar
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    Re: 750 X-2 Rebuild

    I was considering cutting / shaping Styrofoam to position the three items, but I'm not sure how hot the voltage regulator gets. I assume it gets hot as it had a lot of built in cooling fins. Not sure packing it in Styrofoam would be a good idea.

  6. #6
    PWCToday Guru alaski's Avatar
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    Re: 750 X-2 Rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Gruen View Post
    I was considering cutting / shaping Styrofoam to position the three items, but I'm not sure how hot the voltage regulator gets. I assume it gets hot as it had a lot of built in cooling fins. Not sure packing it in Styrofoam would be a good idea.
    Not sure if you got my meaning exactly! I hadn't got round to which material you would use if I understand you correctly, I was merely suggesting that you need not affix the base with the 3 components to anything but just shape it to fit so that it would stabilise with the action of shutting the halves of the Pelican box. I definitely agree that Styrofoam would be bad, if not disastrous, but a good epoxy-based slab might do the trick. Of course the wiring could have a little slack (or a lot) depending on preference but might facilitate problem-solving and maintenance perhaps.
    Great thread regardless, it's a lot easier to coming up with ideas for improvement on someone elses project sometimes than ones own! ha

  7. #7
    Top Dog aggrovated's Avatar
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    Re: 750 X-2 Rebuild

    I like the innovative fabrications... cool build

  8. #8
    I dream skis Bob Gruen's Avatar
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    Re: 750 X-2 Rebuild

    Detailed pic of the front of the engine. I cut down the very long throttle cable that came with the ski and sized it to work with the stock 750 bracket. I cut it at the throttle lever end and re-soldered the bung back on. I also cut off the choke section of the bracket and notched the dummy plug bracket so I could bend it to size and mount it there as well.

    Engine Plumbing.4.jpg

  9. #9
    I dream skis Bob Gruen's Avatar
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    Re: 750 X-2 Rebuild - Electric Box

    To finish up the electric box I added two stainless brackets to attach the box to the side of the hull at the fuel line keeper bolts. The front bracket is simply drilled through the Pelican case while at the rear I studded a bolt through the cast wire cap and built a bracket out of heavy stainless I had from removing the oil injection tank from my Blaster. This really locks the Pelican case in, it does not move at all when bolted and strapped. It is also very light, so I am not worried at all that it could pull the hull inserts.

    E-Stack.6.jpg

    E-Stack.7.jpg

    To mount the various fittings to the pelican case I cut up the original E-Box to make nuts and a boss for the cast wire cap. I used a little silicone sealant to make it all waterproof.

    E-Box.1.jpgE-Box boss.1.jpgE-Box.2.jpgE-Box.3.jpg

    To mount the three components I used double sided tape. The picture below is upside down in the the CDI and voltage regulator are sitting on the bottom of the case and the coil is on the top. Due to a happy coincidence the combination of the thickness of the CDI box and coil is the same dimension of the inside of the pelican case, so closing the lid pins the coil in place. I am currently looking at adding a little Styrofoam to pin the coil in a bit better.

    E-Box.4.jpg

    All that remains at this point is to wire it up. Unfortunately I will not be able to fire up the engine as doing a final check of my carbs reveled a sealing problem and the need to rebuild. I have also decided to increase the mid-jet to a 50 as a starting point to provide a little more fuel that I think the exhaust will need. So I am waiting on parts to do my initial startup.

  10. #10
    PWCToday Newbie herculesboat's Avatar
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    Re: 750 X-2 Rebuild

    how many dollar cost to built it

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