ELECTRICAL / IGNITION PROBLEMS guide
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  1. #1
    JetSki Solutions
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    ELECTRICAL / IGNITION PROBLEMS guide

    Well, the season is here. Since so many have electrical ignition questions, I thought it would be handy to keep this "quick test" guide at the top. I hope this helps everyone make a quick diagnosis 8)

    This applies for most any ignition problem with the 701 61X or 62T series ignition components.

    1. check the AC output of the "charge" coil. Don't get confused with the term "charge" coil......this is what Yamaha calls it, as it "charges" the cdi capacitor. This coil can generate in excess of 500 volts!!
    Dis- connect the brown / white trace wire and ground wire and connect the meter leads to these wires, and while cranking the engine, observe the reading. You should have 30 to 50 volts AC depending on how good a battery and starter you have.

    2. Check the pulser coil output. It's job is to tell the cdi when to fire the energy stored in the capacitor. Dis- connect the white / red trace wire and connect the meter leads to this wire and the ground wire. You should get a pulsating 4 to 5 volts AC. (ps, an analog meter is best for this test)

    3. If you are having problems with the battery not recharging, then dis- connect the two green wires and read the cranking voltage produced by the "lighting" coil. This coil's name is a throw back from the old enduro bike days, when the manufacturer would add a coil to the stator to operate head, brake and turn signal lights....without a battery, and later with. Anyway, you should see 6 to 10 volts or so here, again AC. This coil puts out close to 20+ volts AC, to be recitified to DC and regulated at 13.5 or so to recharge the battery. This coil is rated to generate up to about 2amps of charging current. This in mind, beware when running two bilge pumps.....a battery going bad (high internal resistance) and two bilge pumps running for a extending time is just enough to cook a lighting coil.

    4. Ignition coil. Not many folks do not have a meter capable of resolving the almost dead short of the primary on this coil. But if you do, the resistance should be .078 to .106 DON'T forget to subtract the meter leads resistance by shorting together and subtracting, or adjusting the zero ohms pot, if you have it. Also, remove and insert the leads in the sockets to clean the connection.....I often see 1 ohm or more go down to .2 or .3 by performing this task.
    NEXT, check the health of your spark plug wires, or high tension wires as the Brits like to say. The only way to test them properly is to remove the boots and get to the end of the wire. You can try jamming the point of the meter probes into the end, but due to the dirt and metal dust, it often does NOT give a solid connection / reading. If you have electrical contact cleaner, by all means spray with that first. You should read 3500 to 4700 ohms, or 3.5 to 4.7K ohms STEADY....while flexing the wires from end to end. If you get any fluctuations, they are bad...IE breaking up inside, turning to a high resistance powder of metal and rubber. I have seen bad plug wires cause problems with idle and low speed only, mid range only, and high speed only, and every combination thereof. Very strange !!!

    If all these check out good, then I would swap the cdi with a known good unit....and known good means just what it says.....you have had it running in your boat, you removed it, and you put it away..The only other known good is a new unit. I have heard many a sad tale of days of trouble shooting with no luck, only to find out that the "known good" cdi your buddy gave or loaned you was not good after all.

    Another interesting point is the "sparks when you let off the start button" syndrome. This always means on of two things......the cdi is bad, or the pulser coil is bad, or the wire from it to the e box is open.

    Another good point to keep in mind: it is very possible to have two problems going on at once. One, like bad plug wires may have going on for a while, but no creating any major problems....the performance degrades so slowly you really don't notice it. Then, the charge coil insulation starts breaking down, or the connection from the winding to the terminal posts goes bad and starts arcing over. The two combined creat havoc, and can make diagnosis difficult.

    After seeing so many stator coils have a good resistance, but test bad....I strongly advise against using resistance readings alone a gauge of health. Perform the cranking voltage output test!! Resistance readings are still useful for some work, so here they are for 61X and 62T:

    61X: charge coil, brown / white trace to ground / black: 365 +- 10%

    Pulser coil, white / red trace to ground / black: 12.6 to 15.4

    62T: Charge coil, brown / white trace to ground / black: 497 to 608

    Pulser coil, same as above

    Lighting coil, green / green wires: 1.14 to 1.40 Since this coil is not grounded in any way to the stator frame, you can check this coil for leakage to ground (indicating bad insulation) by measuring between either green wire and ground with your meter set on the highest ohms scale, usually 20 to 40 meg ohms. If you get any reading, the coil is going bad.

    There are other tests we perform to positively verify a coil's health, but the equipment is specialized and the proceedure is beyond the scope of this posting.

    A note about the ignition coil: CDI ignition coils are much different than the coils in many cars, especially older cars. Those coils operate on the "collapsing magnetic field" principle to creat the high voltage. CDI ignition coils are in essence "step up transformers" simular to any any plug in wall transformer to operate various devices. The output is directly proportional to the input.

    Another interesting proceedure you can do to gain more information about your coil's health.......hook your meter up to any coil, set it on the highest scale, and observe the reading. Leaving it there for an hour or more and come back and see what it reads. A lower reading or higher reading, or a reading that will not stabilize indicates a bad, or going bad coil. This may only work with better quality meters.

    Some of this applies to Kawasaki too. If you want more info on Kawasaki, as well as Polaris, please contact me via e mail, NOT pm.

    As most of you know, we can restore any stator and ignition coil to better than new condition. Please check our web site, or give us a call if you need more information.

  2. #2
    cK SJ
    Guest
    Legend, thanks!

  3. #3
    It's great that you took the time to put this together. Thanks!

  4. #4
    ArielsIII
    Guest
    Sounds like good info....but how does it apply to a 650 Waverunner III 1992......see my problem in "I need help..." topic posted June 02...
    It just cuts out like a switch after it has gotten warmed up.....and won't run up to 30 seconds again until it has cooled off all the way.....

    Thanks for the help...

  5. #5
    Top Dog Wet Wolf's Avatar
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    Great info Jetski!

    Hea tip if you have to replace your yami coil, the wires often go bad, so then you have to buy a new coil.

    As long as you are replacing the coil, then order a polaris coil part # 4060229, its off of an 800 RMK and bolts right into the yami electric box. you will need to get about 4 ft of plug wire and some tb05ema NGK plug boots. Its a really easy upgrade and with the polaris coil, the plug wires are replaceable, which is the main reason that yamaha is still selling coils, instead of just plug wire!


    I needed 6 feet of copper core for my triumph and looked all over. the local suzuki shop had some, for 39c an inch. thats $30!!! for six feet of plug wire. I said " Are you sure its not 39C a foot?"

    "nope, 39c an inch"

    I walked out the door laffin my azz off

    you can get copper core plug wire at napa for about 70 cents a foot. 4 bux and some change at napa for 6 feet. I saved myself $24
    next time i need plug wire for the sj. ill just put on plug wire.


    Bruce Wolford (509) 280-5444 - Pump Performance
    http://www.wetwolf.com

  6. #6
    Frequent Poster madoyster's Avatar
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    Great post, Thanks

  7. #7
    Fixin' To Get Slapped PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home skraggy's Avatar
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    Re: ELECTRICAL / IGNITION PROBLEMS guide

    Great article.I think I have my charging problem narrowed down due to the guidlines layed out in this thread.Hopefully someone can verify this before I start spending money...hopefully on the right parts.

    This is a 93 B1,701 61X,stock stator and CDI.

    I am getting no charge at all while running,actually a slight drop when revved.Initial reading on battery before starting is 12.49v,if I rev to say 4000rpm it will drop to approx. 12.2v.

    These are the readings I am getting...

    Charge coil resistance... 3.47
    Lighting coil resistance.... 1.12
    No leak to ground on the lighting coil.
    Lighting coil,fully charged battery,across the 2 green wires... 1.7-1.8v AC,while cranking.

    Am I safe to say it is the Lighting coil ?

    Hope someone can guide me in the right direction...JSS
    Last edited by skraggy; 11-16-2006 at 09:49 PM.

  8. #8
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home David3aces's Avatar
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    Re: ELECTRICAL / IGNITION PROBLEMS guide

    Great post and very informative.

    I experienced this last summer, the rental guy I sometimes work for had a few 62T skis with very weak spark. His skis are some of the most worn out skis on the planet. The charge coils had resistance readings somewhere in the low 400 ohms range so he ordered 2 WSM charge coils that needed ground wires made up and once again he had great spark. Each WSM coil lasted about a week and would come back open (infinate resistance). He then purchaced yamaha charge coils which read 540 ohms new and with these the spark would jump to ground from about an inch away!
    Before, his skis would be very hard to start if they would start at all and after installing the new coil the ski would start instantly.
    Once again, great post.

  9. #9
    Fixin' To Get Slapped PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home skraggy's Avatar
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    Re: ELECTRICAL / IGNITION PROBLEMS guide

    What do you think David ???

    I usually have the answers,and my best guess would be the lighting coil.I guess I could just drop the $75 and find out.

  10. #10
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home David3aces's Avatar
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    Re: ELECTRICAL / IGNITION PROBLEMS guide

    how much AC voltage do the green wires produce (between the two) while running?
    Last edited by David3aces; 11-18-2006 at 12:18 PM.

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