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  1. #11
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home Chester's Avatar
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    Re: Jet Pump Liner - Impeller sticking!

    If salt water gets in between that liner and the housing, it will happen again. Aluminum oxide will form and build up regardless of what the liner is made of. It has nothing to do with dissimilar metals. Sea-Doo uses plastic wear rings and the old aluminum pumps, over time, would have this exact same problem. This doesn't happen when used in fresh water.

    Chester
    Speed is very expensive. How fast do you want to spend?

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  2. #12
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    Re: Jet Pump Liner - Impeller sticking!

    Chester,

    It has EVERYTHING to do with dis-similar metals!
    Galvanic corrosion is caused by 2 different metals and the presence of an electrolyte (in this case salt water). The corrosion happens at an accelerated rate due to the 2 differing metals.
    This is not my opinion - its facts!

    Now you are correct that it is because of the salt water however it is made far worse with 2 dis-similar metals - the aluminium goes “active” and degrades rapidly.

    Ignoring the science behind it - I could not go 5 months without having to strip out my pump and grind it down before.
    After the repair I haven’t done it in 5 years!
    Its the same pump so if your theory of “nothing to do with dis-similar metals” was true surely it would still be happening??

    I am not arguing aluminium doesn’t corrode but in this case removal of the stainless sleeve is a massive contributing factor.

  3. #13
    PWCToday Newbie Brandon577's Avatar
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    Re: Jet Pump Liner - Impeller sticking!

    Kawijet you are correct. Same thing happens to aluminum boats that are used in salt water. Anything that is a dissimilar metal can cause galvanic corrosion when immersed together in saltwater for example - seat mounting plates, fishing rod holders, brass fittings, sometimes ever the rivets used during manufacturing. in this case jet pumps

  4. #14
    PWCToday Newbie Brandon577's Avatar
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    Re: Jet Pump Liner - Impeller sticking!

    a question for you though kawijet, referring the picture on post #8, did you make those end caps in order to put the sleeve on a lathe to machine the outside diameter down to the inside diameter of the jet pump? also when you put your newly made sleeve in the pump did you use any sealer to secure it or was it a tight enough fit?

  5. #15
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    Re: Jet Pump Liner - Impeller sticking!

    Yes thats correct. The end caps were just made out of scrap MDF i had lying around (should have used something stronger but it worked). I machined them down first then fitted them to the perspex cylinder and this jig enabled it to be held in the lathe for machining.

    I did not seal the sleeve but applied petroleum jelly (vaseline) to help assembly. It was a tight fit and had to be pressed into the housing. There is also a small screw that passes through the sleeve to hold it in place.

  6. #16
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home Chester's Avatar
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    Re: Jet Pump Liner - Impeller sticking!

    The exact same aluminum oxide corrosion happens to the Sea-Doo aluminum pumps that use plastic wear ring.

    Chester
    Speed is very expensive. How fast do you want to spend?

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  7. #17
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home WFO Speedracer's Avatar
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    Re: Jet Pump Liner - Impeller sticking!

    Yep and the exact same thing used to happen on the Seadoo steering bushings which were plastic, been there done that many a time.
    Y'all know me, still the same O.G. but I been low-key
    hated on by most these &^$$@s with no cheese, no deals and no G's, no wheels and no keys, no boats, no snowmobiles, and no skis, mad at me cause I can finally afford to provide my family with groceries


  8. #18
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    Re: Jet Pump Liner - Impeller sticking!

    Any thoughts on why Seadoo would have used plastic??

    Using stainless CAUSES aluminium to become anodic and degrade faster than the rate it corrodes naturally. Plastic doesn’t. The Aluminium will only corrode naturally next to plastic. So although the salt water is the cause - the rate of corrosion is directly linked to the stainless/alu combination.

    So we are both right.

    As it stands this repair HAS sorted the issue that was plaguing me for years! If it happens again its an easy fix.
    Last edited by Kawijet; 02-14-2018 at 02:51 AM.

  9. #19
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home Cleatusjo's Avatar
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    Re: Jet Pump Liner - Impeller sticking!

    Quote Originally Posted by Brandon577 View Post
    Kawijet you are correct. Same thing happens to aluminum boats that are used in salt water. Anything that is a dissimilar metal can cause galvanic corrosion when immersed together in saltwater for example - seat mounting plates, fishing rod holders, brass fittings, sometimes ever the rivets used during manufacturing. in this case jet pumps
    You know , Ive asked this before.... anyone try attaching a few zincs to the ride plate or the outside of the stator vane nozzle . Works on a mercruser out drive ?????

    I have 650s so I dont bother. pumps are a dime a dozen.

    If you put a stainless prop on an outdrive you HAVE to use zincs.
    Last edited by Cleatusjo; 02-27-2018 at 08:00 PM.
    '94 Kaw TS
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  10. #20
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home PrickofMisery's Avatar
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    Re: Jet Pump Liner - Impeller sticking!

    Quote Originally Posted by Kawijet View Post
    Hi Brandon,

    I originally posted this question an shortly after i found a solution and PERMANENTLY sorted my issue!!! ��
    I had the exact same problem and tried honing like you suggested. However there are 2 issues with that, 1: stainless sleeve is so hard it takes waaaay too long and 2: it thins out the stainless sleeve wall which makes the problem worse.

    The problem is the aluminium housing reacts with the dis-similar metal of the sleeve causing corrosion between the two. The sleeve is thinner and is pushed into the blades. This happens everytime once it starts. You remove the pump, grind down the “sticky” points on your sleeve then need to do it all over again a few months later!! So irritating!

    However, i did sort it. And heres how:
    I re-sleeved the pump housing with a perspex cylinder for a liner. I found a cylinder with the exact internal diameter required for my impeller and simply machined the outer diameter on a lathe to an interference fit to the pump housing.
    I will post up some pictures layer to show you the jig set up i used to do it. It sounds like a lot of work but its no worse than taking out the pump to grind down the sleeve! Its now been 5 years since i did it and it has never seized up again!!! Bliss!!

    Many benefits of this, perspex is cheaper and easier to machine than stainless and There is NO reaction between the aluminium and sleeve. Even if it did, the perspex would not damage your prop like the current metal to metal wear!

    Ill post up some pictures to give you some ideas later. Best of luck!

    Stevo
    Quote Originally Posted by Kawijet View Post
    Attachment 535597

    Jig I made to hold persepex for machining. Nuts on the threaded rod hold it together and threaded rod fits into chuck and tailstop
    This works perfectly! No possibilty of Galvanic corrosion from dis-similar metals. Very easy to replace if it does get damaged in the future. But for now it is good after 5 years. Definately worth the effort.
    Spending money on another stainless sleeve is not really the way to go as it WILL happen again.

    Hope this helps.

    Stevo
    Quote Originally Posted by Kawijet View Post
    Attachment 535598

    The most difficult part of the repair was the liner removal. However, removing the stainless liner is not as tricky as you think. If you have access to a welder and a slide hammer its no problem.
    Run a complete bead of weld right around the inside of the sleeve in 3 or 4 seperate bands. When the weld cools it shrinks and, as it is welded in a band, this effectively reduces the diameter of the sleeve, pulling it inwards and free of the impeller housing. However, it is still very tight. I welded 2x threaded rods inside to hook my slide hammer underneath. Holding the housing down it was possible tohammer/pull out the sleeve without too much effort.

    I rubbed down all the corrosion on the aluminium with course grit sandpaper and applied etching primer to seal it before inserting the sleeve.

    Go for it! You wont regret it!

    Stevo
    Quote Originally Posted by Kawijet View Post
    Any thoughts on why Seadoo would have used plastic??

    Using stainless CAUSES aluminium to become anodic and degrade faster than the rate it corrodes naturally. Plastic doesn’t. The Aluminium will only corrode naturally next to plastic. So although the salt water is the cause - the rate of corrosion is directly linked to the stainless/alu combination.

    So we are both right.

    As it stands this repair HAS sorted the issue that was plaguing me for years! If it happens again its an easy fix.

    Very clever Kawijet...


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