550 rev limiter disconnection
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  1. #1
    PWCToday Regular
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    550 rev limiter disconnection

    I picked up a js550 a few months back which had the rev limit solenoid taken out of the fuel line loop and was left to flop around the engine bay. I want to know if I can cut the wires to it. Do the engine electronics need to see the load of the solenoid all the time in order to let the engine run?

  2. #2
    Resident Guru speedreed8's Avatar
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    i removed the revlimiter from my 88 550, i unscrewed the nylon
    nut at the ignition box were the wires for the revlimiter go into it. you can
    pull the wires out some and find the plugs and unplug it. tape the wire
    plugs up and push them back in the igniton box. and silicone the end of the nut up so water doesnt get in there. makes a cleaner looking removal.
    just trace the wires back to the box. i believe theyre blue and black.
    good luck.
    1988 JS550A7 modified, overhauled many times.., still riding @ my age, a little slower
    sbn44 w/OP stack, jetsport head (170psi), factory halfpipe w/ flow control valve,Impros 14.5 S/T impeller, bored nozzle. OEM crankshaft.
    T/R scoop grate, jetsport rideplate. seadoo 580 starter. advanced timing
    1997 750zxi (stock) boyesen power reeds>>sold
    1997 900stx (stock)>>sold
    1987 650sx >> sold
    1984 440 converted to R & R Jet tech stage 2 550 >>sold

  3. #3
    Resident Guru XXX Racing's Avatar
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    No, blue and black are the "stop" engine wires. I can't remember the right colors though.

    You can just cut 'em if you're in for a fast fix, but removing the guts is always a cleaner route. I've gone so far as to take the whole thing out of the electric box too.

    Stand Up Rider #37

  4. #4
    PWCToday Regular
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    Cool thanks for the info.

  5. #5
    Resident Guru speedreed8's Avatar
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    you're right xxx, mine are orange & white. memory is fading as
    i age. carry on.
    1988 JS550A7 modified, overhauled many times.., still riding @ my age, a little slower
    sbn44 w/OP stack, jetsport head (170psi), factory halfpipe w/ flow control valve,Impros 14.5 S/T impeller, bored nozzle. OEM crankshaft.
    T/R scoop grate, jetsport rideplate. seadoo 580 starter. advanced timing
    1997 750zxi (stock) boyesen power reeds>>sold
    1997 900stx (stock)>>sold
    1987 650sx >> sold
    1984 440 converted to R & R Jet tech stage 2 550 >>sold

  6. #6
    Resident Guru XXX Racing's Avatar
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    It's all good! 8)

    Stand Up Rider #37

  7. #7
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    OK I opened the box up and disconnected the limiter solenoid. I thought about taking the little black box out which i assume was the limiter circuitry but since it had wires going into other things I just decided to leave it alone. The main reason I wanted eliminate the limiter was because the previous owner must have broken one of the nylon water seal wire fitting and just did a rtv plug up job which didn't look to good. I used the nylon fitting for the limiter to repair the old fix. But know there is the hole left from the limiter fitting. Do you guys know what size threaded hole that is? Is it metric or US. I need something I can either buy or make to screw in their and plug the hole.

  8. #8
    Top Dog tommyortom's Avatar
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    is this safe to do? isnt there are rev limiter installed for a reason? ill do this if there are any pros to doing this.......so what is the point?

  9. #9
    Resident Guru XXX Racing's Avatar
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    The only extra wires on that black unit inside the e-box should be one orange wire that splices into your orange ignition wire, and one brown ground wire. Yank 'er out! I used a plastic battery terminal cap (you get 'em with new car batteries) to fill the hole, and siliconed it in place. You DEFINITELY don't want water getting in there.

    Removing the rev limiter is a weird mod. I've done it to a few skis, and ignored it on others. The idea is like this: the stock 550 rev limiter doesn't actually have an RPM ceiling, rather it works off electrical input - thus, if the engine produces "too much" electricity either by spinning too quickly or revving too high, it'll activate the solenoid to over-rich your carb and slow you down. SO: leaving it alone "supposedly" keeps your high-output 550 from revving as quickly as it could. Leaving it on there, allows all the safety with which Kawasaki saw fit to equip you.

    You can remove the whole black deal from the E-box with no worries. In fact, that's what I recommend doing if you're going to do it at all. Next up, clip the wires on the rev-limiter solenoid right next to it (it's that goofy looking thing attached to the starboard gunwhale, next to the carb) - leave no pigtail. I leave the solenoid in place because it's the ideal fuel return-line restrictor for the 550 carbs. Done and done. Of course, if you have a better method for fuel return line restriction, via the pills or a screw in jet, you can then remove the solenoid altogether without having to cut the wires - this way, you could also reinstall the system should you need to sell your ski or return it to the dealer for warranty service.

    Stand Up Rider #37

  10. #10
    I dream skis 550$$$'s Avatar
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    Warranty service. Yeah.... I'm bringing in my 17 year old 550 for some factory warranty work....... Imagine the dealers face!
    1988 JS550

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