Buffing
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Thread: Buffing

  1. #1
    PWCToday Guru millz90's Avatar
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    Buffing

    Ok, so i have read a lot about buffing, wet sanding, etc. but i am still having issues. Just wondering if anyone can help.

    1st issue:
    What should i actually use to buff the ski? I have wet sanded and started to use a buffing pad from autozone which is the tan kind fuzzy pad.
    I was originally using a liquid buffing compound putting it right on the pad and buffing the ski with it but this was leaving a film on it and was not really bringing back the shine.
    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...uestid=1270315

    I then started to use this turtle compound applying it with a pad letting it dry a little then buffing it, but this still doesnt seem to work that great.
    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=552034_0_0_

    This like the pad i am using originally.
    http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...4&ci_sku=21697


    Am i doing this right?

    2nd Issue:
    How and what do i use to get in the tight places on the ski...like where your feet go? i bought a round buffer but the material is like foam and i didnt think i should be using foam i though i shoul dbe using a fuzzy cloth type pad like the link above...but i can NOT get that in tight places like the side of the ski....

    I then bought a pollishing ball to try to get into the tight spots but this doesnt seem to do anything either?
    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=209154_0_0_

    ANY help would be appreciated....Sorry for the long post!

  2. #2
    PWCToday.com Is My Home Away From Home Spim's Avatar
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    Re: Buffing

    elbow grease is the #1 factor,
    no magic wand.
    of course there's no substitute for a good mexican... find one !
    Last edited by Spim; 04-11-2011 at 11:18 AM.
    The problem with normal is that it just keeps getting worse...

    I would rather sit than quit...
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    Advertise here, Low Monthly Rates !

  3. #3
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    Re: Buffing

    There are two general types of buffers - hi speed and orbital - depends upon how aggressive you want to get, but since you have already wetsanded, this is going to count as aggressive - the hi speed buffer with a wool cover will be best.

    I use AquaBuff2000 which works good - I think the Meguirs product you showed isn't going to be real effective - the TurtleWax might be better. You might want to discuss this further with someone where you buy stuff - make sure you tell them you are machine buffing after a wetsand.

    Regardless of product, technique is where it is at. I determine a section (on boats I do 3 foot squares, obviously much smaller on a ski, you decide), and then focus on just that section until it is done. Dump some compound into a bowl, use 3" paint brush to wipe a swash of compound onto the work area, then use buffer to try and rub the compound into the work, moving back and forth repeatedly until the compound is almost all gone (at least 5 or 10 minutes) - then repeat. Continue to swash with compound and then buff "into" paint until the area is shiny. (From a light wetsand, about 5 total passes, at least an hour).

    Since you are just learning, it will take you an hour to do the first 1 foot square section. This mean to do it right, the ski will take 4 to 10 hours.

    From that point, it should be real shiny - finish off with a good wax and either hand or orbital buffer. (The Meguir's RV and Marine, also in a black bottle, is good stuff).

    The buffing ball will work, but might take a LONG time. You will need to be inventive to find the right tools and techniques to get the detail work. If you do the major areas real shiny, you can get the edges and hidden spaces by hand with a rag.

  4. #4
    I dream skis
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    Re: Buffing

    Dont rub to hard with the compound you can do more damage .There are many made especially for boats.I use turtle wax light oxidation compound. Move constantly with applicator.After it dries to a haze rub with clean cloth. .Then apply the polish or wax with pad and buff it off when it comes to a glaze with clean towel or buffer.There are videos on line on this.Take your time to get the mirror like image you want
    Last edited by massguy; 04-11-2011 at 11:40 AM.

  5. #5
    PWCToday Guru millz90's Avatar
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    Re: Buffing

    Quote Originally Posted by DonziDave View Post
    There are two general types of buffers - hi speed and orbital - depends upon how aggressive you want to get, but since you have already wetsanded, this is going to count as aggressive - the hi speed buffer with a wool cover will be best.


    Regardless of product, technique is where it is at. I determine a section (on boats I do 3 foot squares, obviously much smaller on a ski, you decide), and then focus on just that section until it is done. Dump some compound into a bowl, use 3" paint brush to wipe a swash of compound onto the work area, then use buffer to try and rub the compound into the work, moving back and forth repeatedly until the compound is almost all gone (at least 5 or 10 minutes) - then repeat. Continue to swash with compound and then buff "into" paint until the area is shiny. (From a light wetsand, about 5 total passes, at least an hour).
    .
    Yea i am using a electric drill that i put the pad on the end so i can apply pretty decent pressure.

    So i put the compound on with a brush....do i let the compound dry or start buffing when its wet?

    Its hard for me to believe there isnt a arrow shaped buffing pad or something to get in corners....WTF

  6. #6
    PWCToday Guru millz90's Avatar
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    Re: Buffing

    Actually i was reading the insturctions for the AQUA-BUFF 2000 and it says to mist it with water before you start buffing so i assume all compound should be wet when you start to buff?

  7. #7
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    Re: Buffing

    Slap a brush full of compound onto the work area, start working it with the buffer. You can add some water to AquaBuff (or any water based compound).

    A pad on a drill is probably going to double (or triple) all of my time estimates - it is a poor replacement for the correct tool.

  8. #8
    PWCToday Guru millz90's Avatar
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    Re: Buffing

    Can you send me a link to what i should be using?

    Why would it take so much longer? I can apply pressure and it spins fast?
    Last edited by millz90; 04-11-2011 at 12:36 PM.

  9. #9
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    Re: Buffing

    http://www.harborfreight.com/7-inch-...der-92623.html

    This is the correct type of tool, although typical HarborFreight - it works (much better than your drill), but might have a limited lifetime. You can find very similar products from all the tool suppliers (DeWalt, Makita, etc) - price will go up quickly, expect to pay $150+ for a good one.

    When you use the buffer/polsher, you will quickly realize your drill doesn't have nearly enough power to do the job.

    THE BUFFER IS A PRO TOOL - treat it with respect - if the pad catches something (like a cleat or handle) it can kick back and seriously hurt you, if you get a nut or bolt laying on the ground, it will throw it, very hard (will go through windows, eyes, etc), if you catch the power cord really bad things happen...

  10. #10
    I dream skis EngineerJon's Avatar
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    Re: Buffing

    Definitely look for a real buffer like a Makita with a 7" wool pad.

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