96 xp starts on trailer but not in water????

[stpurdue@comcast.net]

won't start in the water and I had flushed with garden hose & forgot to remove hose pincher from outlet hose & ran for 25 minutes & then I removed pincher & ran for 7 more different times without trouble but now it won't start in the water?? Please HELP!

[xpone]

What rpm is it idling at in the driveway? If it's set too low, it will run in the driveway, but will not run and will immediately stall in the water upon cranking. Seen it happen more than a few times to people on the boat ramp.

[bills86e]

Low compression or Lean. If compression is good (150) go thru the carbs.

[rocxp95]

carb issue bro!

[Minnetonka4me]

first things first is a compression test. If thats good, Then if you dont have any knowledge of the maintence history, you need to clean and rebuild the carbs (replace the needles and seats too), change the fuel line, and clean the selector switch.

[Mr. Bill]

More likely to be too rich from leaking needle valves inside the carbureators. This is a very common problem when needle valves leak. You cannot adjust it out, so rebuild the carbs if you are capable. If not have them rebuilt by a pro.

The head and exhaust manifold will turn a very dark tannish/yellow from the orginal white engine color if overheated enough to really do some piston damage from lack of water. Hopefully just enough water went past the pincher and also out the clyinder drain hose and CSI to allow it to not get really hot and do some real damages. I have seen plenty of overheated motors with discolored heads and manifolds and they still run great. Better off with the water out line being pinched than the inlet line from the jetpump as if it was the exit line you still have the clyinder drain line, the CSI and the water going into the exhaust pipe and muffler. You know you really did some damage if the head, ex manifold, and MUFFLER turn colors, because that means the engine, pipe and muffler did not recieve water from the jetpump and not only will it do engine damage, it will ruin all rubber exhaust hoses and couplers and melt the thru hull exhaust fitting in the hull ( also the resonator if equipt with the D-Bell sound reduction system, and also the water regulator on top of the muffler ).
Do a compression test to see if the compression has dropped more than 5 psi from oem specs if it has Rotax pistons, or 10 psi if the pistons are aftermarket.

Bill O'Neal
WCM

[Minnetonka4me]

A lot of times overheating is from a inlet hose popping loose....and the hull fulls with water. that keeps the lower end cool enough to keep from melting the plastic retainers in the bearings, but you still get the overheated paint on top.

I had it happen 2 years ago 200' from shore after ripping on it for 15mins jumping wake....hull was half full of water, engine would not go b/c of overheat, but I limped it another min to get fairly close before killing it. Opened it up and all the hoses had melted off the connectors, and water was JUST about up to the carbs. Water hitting the head was instant steam...it was so hot!! I got it on shore, pumped the bilge out, then took a nap while it cooled down. Hooked the hoses up and that motor still runs great!

[stpurdue@comcast.net]

Thanks for all of the replies I have been away for a while. I will test compression and then rebuild the carbs (are there carb rebuild kits or do you just get the needle valve and seat?) and replace gas lines. Do you really have to replace all of the gas (there are a lot) lines or just the ones that the fuel flows thru the most?

[1995hx]

replace all the fuel lines rebuild carbs and clean or replace the fuel selector valve. also don't cut coners by keeping the vent lines stock change those too.

[Minnetonka4me]

LOL you can leave the vent line, but replace the return line.

The kits come with everything but the needle and seats. denniskirk.com is my place.