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  1. #41
    PWCToday Regular nogascans's Avatar
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    Re: Kawasaki 750 Electric Trim problem

    Are you sure you have the one ground wire from the control box connected to battery ground along with engine ground wire? I believe on most its a black/red wire.

    Sincerely,

    David

  2. #42
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    Re: Kawasaki 750 Electric Trim problem

    Bump to keep this thread alive

  3. #43
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    Re: Kawasaki 750 Electric Trim problem

    I have the trim unit out and ready to hook up a battery to see if it works. So far I’ve connected the negative to the green and positive to the red. Nothing moving. Is it correct to connect the make shift leads from the battery to the trim wires? Please help on how I can test the unit. 6098F627-5B0A-4B75-A846-5846F6ABE019.jpeg

  4. #44
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    Re: Kawasaki 750 Electric Trim problem

    I've undone the trim box and opened up the motor. The motor is hard to spin; yet I can move it by hand if I twist hard. If I pull it out a bit... it spins much more freely. Is this normal? When I hook up wires from a 12v battery to the red wire and to the green or blue... I don't get any movement from the motor / trim.

    IMG_1029.jpeg

  5. #45
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    Re: Kawasaki 750 Electric Trim problem

    Please help here... not sure of my next step to resolve the trim issue. Seems that this is a common problem. Tried to resurrect this thread from the past instead of starting new.

  6. #46
    I dream skis
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    Re: Kawasaki 750 Electric Trim problem

    Motor should spin by hand easily in the stripped down condition shown in your pic. Once you've resolved any mechanical binding, then test electrical. Locate the 2 wires going directly to the motor (not any sensors), I don't know the wire colors. Apply via jumper wires, 12 vdc one way and the motor should spin. Reverse the 12 vdc jumpers and it spins the other way. If it spins one way it likely will spin the other way since either direction uses all the same components.
    I like the trim system on a 750 STS to adjust from solo to 2up to 2up and towing a tube. My 900ZXI has the trim removed and the nozzle secured with a fabricated bracket. I only ride solo and merely adjust trim with body weight/position. The trim systems seem to be chronic maintenance items due to their low mount position and water migrating in via the mechanical cable.
    OLDGUY sez..... "The older I get, the better I was !

  7. #47
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    Re: Kawasaki 750 Electric Trim problem

    Quote Originally Posted by OldGuy View Post
    Motor should spin by hand easily in the stripped down condition shown in your pic. Once you've resolved any mechanical binding, then test electrical. Locate the 2 wires going directly to the motor (not any sensors), I don't know the wire colors. Apply via jumper wires, 12 vdc one way and the motor should spin. Reverse the 12 vdc jumpers and it spins the other way. If it spins one way it likely will spin the other way since either direction uses all the same components.
    I like the trim system on a 750 STS to adjust from solo to 2up to 2up and towing a tube. My 900ZXI has the trim removed and the nozzle secured with a fabricated bracket. I only ride solo and merely adjust trim with body weight/position. The trim systems seem to be chronic maintenance items due to their low mount position and water migrating in via the mechanical cable.
    Thanks for the response! When I pull the trim motor out... it's easy to turn. Yet when I push it back in and have it try to turn the gear I run into the tightness. I've cleaned and lubricated the area as best as possible.

    In regards to the jumper wires. I have one wire connected to the positive and one to the negative of a free standing battery. The battery is fully charged. Do I need to have some type of power going into the battery (ex: have the engine running at the same time)? Also, do I need to connect the engine ground as well to the negative terminal as well?
    Last edited by keck; 11-23-2020 at 08:33 PM.

  8. #48
    I dream skis
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    Re: Kawasaki 750 Electric Trim problem

    A fully charged battery is all you need. No need to connect the engine ground. You don't even have to be anywhere near the ski, you can test it on the bench. Just apply the 12 vdc across the 2 motor wires in one direction, then reverse them for the other direction.
    First clear any mechanical binding. The exposed armature in your pic should be pushed in/out to get it aligned where it would be when the whole motor is assembled and mounted to the trim actuating device (the thing in your pic that has the armature sticking out from)
    OLDGUY sez..... "The older I get, the better I was !

  9. #49
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    Re: Kawasaki 750 Electric Trim problem

    Quote Originally Posted by OldGuy View Post
    A fully charged battery is all you need. No need to connect the engine ground. You don't even have to be anywhere near the ski, you can test it on the bench. Just apply the 12 vdc across the 2 motor wires in one direction, then reverse them for the other direction.
    First clear any mechanical binding. The exposed armature in your pic should be pushed in/out to get it aligned where it would be when the whole motor is assembled and mounted to the trim actuating device (the thing in your pic that has the armature sticking out from)
    Thanks for the responses. Please help clarify which two wires you are noting to connect to the battery. I can also try a multimeter. I know the green and blue wires that control the up and down. Seems that I need to have one battery wire connect to one of these and the other lead to as power line. Right? Which is the power line? I assumed black; yet didn't get movement when I touched the black line coming from the trim motor and the green or blue. Am I doing it incorrectly?

    IMG_1050.jpeg

  10. #50
    I dream skis
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    Re: Kawasaki 750 Electric Trim problem

    I believe you just use the Blue and the Green, on the 2-conductor connector. But test first, with your multimeter. You are measuring just the high current path through the motor. The motor windings have a low resistance value(maybe 5 ohms - guess) but you are also measuring through the brushes that carry the current into/out of the motor windings. Brushes often give somewhat erratic readings on the very low test current from your meter. Anyway you should read a low value, but not zero. Do not define the blue and the green as up, or down. It is the polarity of the 12 vdc that you apply across them. Put your 12 vdc test (battery) wires on these two wires. One polarity will spin it clockwise, and the reversed polarity will spin it counterclockwise.
    OLDGUY sez..... "The older I get, the better I was !

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