Winterization question... yes I read the OEM how-to

Cobra4B · 01-25-2010, 01:23 PM

If you google PWC winterization all the how-to's say that you only need anti-freeze on some sea-do models that have water chambers. I see that Honda calls for it, but is it overkill?

2nd... I see that they suggest fogging the cylinders... why? This is a 4-stroke dry sump ski. I would never do this to a car that I was storring or a motor-cycle, so why bother for a PWC? I can see fogging the carb/cylinders on a 2-stroke.

3rd... anyone have a picture of the "maintenance joint" that is supposed to be disconnected/lubed? I use green grease on the rear prop seal thing... where the zerk fitting is under the seat.

All I normally do is ad some sta-bil to the tank and flush the ski like I do after riding, but I've always stored in the garage. I want to move the ski outside and free up garage space. My plan is to just put it outside and put the cover on and then put a tarp over all of it. Considering sucking a little anti-freeze in it, but curious if it's even needed.

Thanks,
Brian

2005F12XDiver · 01-25-2010, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cobra4B

If you google PWC winterization all the how-to's say that you only need anti-freeze on some sea-do models that have water chambers. I see that Honda calls for it, but is it overkill?

2nd... I see that they suggest fogging the cylinders... why? This is a 4-stroke dry sump ski. I would never do this to a car that I was storring or a motor-cycle, so why bother for a PWC? I can see fogging the carb/cylinders on a 2-stroke.

3rd... anyone have a picture of the "maintenance joint" that is supposed to be disconnected/lubed? I use green grease on the rear prop seal thing... where the zerk fitting is under the seat.

All I normally do is ad some sta-bil to the tank and flush the ski like I do after riding, but I've always stored in the garage. I want to move the ski outside and free up garage space. My plan is to just put it outside and put the cover on and then put a tarp over all of it. Considering sucking a little anti-freeze in it, but curious if it's even needed.

Thanks,
Brian

1st.Stabil or Seafoam is your friend, use them for any storage over a month or so.
2nd. Fogging? My opinion overkill but there are many opinions on this which I'm sure you will get. It's a four stroke not a two stroke so I don't do it to keep from fouling some very expensive plugs.
3rd. Maintenance joint is on the very top of the engine, it unscrews to a male/female fitting, the sticky indicates how much to squirt in and how.
4th. Wanna have to buy a new engine? Park it outside in freezing weather with no antifreeze. The block and water passages in the exhaust do not entirely drain. You need to follow the instructions posted to force the water out. No, you do not run the engine putting in the antifreeze, gravity does the work. There is no 'water' pump when the ski is out of the water.

01-25-2010, 09:04 PM

[QUOTE=Cobra4B;2519601]If you google PWC winterization all the how-to's say that you only need anti-freeze on some sea-do models that have water chambers. I see that Honda calls for it, but is it overkill?

2nd... I see that they suggest fogging the cylinders... why? This is a 4-stroke dry sump ski. I would never do this to a car that I was storring or a motor-cycle, so why bother for a PWC? I can see fogging the carb/cylinders on a 2-stroke.

3rd... anyone have a picture of the "maintenance joint" that is supposed to be disconnected/lubed? I use green grease on the rear prop seal thing... where the zerk fitting is under the seat.

All I normally do is ad some sta-bil to the tank and flush the ski like I do after riding, but I've always stored in the garage. I want to move the ski outside and free up garage space. My plan is to just put it outside and put the cover on and then put a tarp over all of it. Considering sucking a little anti-freeze in it, but curious if it's even needed.

Thanks,
Brian[/QUOTE

Yes you need the antifreeze I live in your area....well close Currituck, Its been damn cold here you will need the antifreze any water left in the cooling system is bad. Storing it outside is fine but not Ideal mine has some fading and cracking from being in the winter elements. MY WELL FROZE so please use the antifreeze

The maintance joint is the round silver thing on top of the engine small has a rubber hose on both ends.......by the throttle cable you unscrew it........but I dont lubercate that much as I found it to foul plugs on my ski.....when I do do it it will be right after riding when the motor is hot the I start it up to burn the oil off that got into the engine

I never fog cylinders cause it fouls plugs.....when I did do it I always had to buy a new set in the spring....then I kept a old set and always used those to restart ski in spring but it was too much trouble

M. Cole · 01-26-2010, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cobra4B

If you google PWC winterization all the how-to's say that you only need anti-freeze on some sea-do models that have water chambers. I see that Honda calls for it, but is it overkill?

2nd... I see that they suggest fogging the cylinders... why? This is a 4-stroke dry sump ski. I would never do this to a car that I was storring or a motor-cycle, so why bother for a PWC? I can see fogging the carb/cylinders on a 2-stroke.

3rd... anyone have a picture of the "maintenance joint" that is supposed to be disconnected/lubed? I use green grease on the rear prop seal thing... where the zerk fitting is under the seat.

All I normally do is ad some sta-bil to the tank and flush the ski like I do after riding, but I've always stored in the garage. I want to move the ski outside and free up garage space. My plan is to just put it outside and put the cover on and then put a tarp over all of it. Considering sucking a little anti-freeze in it, but curious if it's even needed.

Thanks,
Brian

I gets cold here too. I use stabil in the tank and flush the engine with antifreeze. I spray a small amount of crc 656 in both ends of the maintenance joint and haven't had any problems so far. If your gas has ethanol in it and you don't drain the tank use the blue stabil and keep it full to help prevent condisate from forming in the tank.