Honda Impeller / Pump tips

creator · 04-13-2005, 06:45 PM

Hey everyone... I've noticed some interest in having impeller work done / replacing the impeller (gee, i wonder why...

) and would like to pass along some verry important info that I've learned in my time. I've found this information by making my own mistakes and testing what works. Keep in mind that I regularly pull apart my pumps due to one reason or another thanks to my racing. I think I'm down to half an hour for a full pump removal and re-install.

Anyways, these are just some random notes that I can think of right now.

First, here's a great link from Hap's Cycle on how the book says to do things:
http://www.hapscycle.com/Service/Ser...mpeller6_1.htm

Now here's what I do...

--remove--
1. Pull off the reverse cable (it's a slide release)
2. Pull reverse bucket side bolts (2x)
3. Pull reverse bucket slide bolt
4. Pull off the steering (and trim for R models) cables
5. Cut the zip tie holding the bilge hose on the nozel, and pull the hose off
6. Pull the pump nozel bolts (4x)
7. Pull the pump mount bolts (4x)
8. Pull (the pump)

--re-install--

1. Grease the large seal o-ring with a good waterproof grease
2. Grease the impeller splines (one big bead all the way aroud) and boot (light coating on seal surface)
3. Make sure the dowl pins are in place in ither the seat or the pump
4. Line the impeller up onto the driveshaft and push the pump up to the mounting plate
5. *make sure the cooling water passage is on the left side
6. **make sure the speed sensor wire is NOT trapped between the mounting plate and pump (d'oh!)
7. Bolt the pump to the plate (4x) use red locktite and torque down to 16 foot pounds
8. Bolt the nozel to the pump (4x) use red locktite and torque down to 16 foot pounds
9. Re-install the steering (and trim) cables
10. Push the builge hose onto the nozel fitting and secure with a zip tie
11. Grease the track for the Reverse bucket pivot bolt
12. Bolt on the Reverse bucket pivot bolt (through the bracket) and use red locktite
13. Grease the smooth part of the reverse bucket bolts and Bolt down the reverse bucket (2x) use red locktite
14. Re-attach reverse bucket cable

That's it. piece of cake. now for the fun stuff. my notes.

1. As mentioned earlier, use red locktite on everything. ** THIS INCLUDES THE IMPELLER THREADS! (No Grease, it WILL back off and damage the pump)
2. Throw away any Honda greases you have. They are enviro-friendly, but verry wussy for the job. Instead use a quality waterproof grease. My favorite is Johnson & Evinrude tripple guard grease
3. This goes for the grease in the pump as well. I've had much better results by using a gear oil in the pump instead of a grease. My sujestion is Johnson & Evinrude Synthetic Lower Unit gear oil. I fill the pump to the point of where I can just see the oil coming up over the bearing when the pump's at a 45 degree angle or so.
4. When pulling off the impeller, use a big bench vice to hold the pump shaft while you break the impeller free with a breaker bar on the impeller tool
5. Make sure when installing a new impeller to put the rubber stopper in that goes between the splines and threads of the impeller. Afterwards load up the splines of the impeller with grease... lots of it. (it'll keep the pump quiet)
6. The stock impeller is a @#$% to get off. Heat may be required ... along with a cheater bar.

But, be carefull!
7. Use grease on all o-rings, even the small ones sealing the back side of the impeller. Make sure that the tiny one is still there.

hmmm, what else.... That's all I can think of for the moment.

Good luck, everyone! It's really verry simple and easy to work on once you do it once or twice. 8)

ultra toolman · 04-13-2005, 08:27 PM

thanks for taking the time to let everyone know...and i agree the stock impellor is a @#%$@ to get off...

i have only changed the grease once never thought of changing it over to gear oil...may look into that,when i get them out of winter storage in a few weeks...

04-13-2005, 08:43 PM

That was really Great of you Creator, I copy and pasted that to my manual. Good Job

04-13-2005, 09:17 PM

Hey thats great instructions! I think I might attempt that now.......

dg2b · 04-14-2005, 12:06 PM

Thanks for the write up Creator. I am in contact with impros on my stock impeller and these instructions will help me greatly when the time to wrench on my ski come.

creator · 04-14-2005, 01:25 PM

Oh, and remember... If you are switching to gear oil in your pump, you have to get out all of the old grease. And, i'm not just talking on the surfaces, there is a cavity between the bearings that has to be cleared out.

I did this by pulling off the impeller and pouring fuel through the pump bearings for a while to clear it out. I was a little worried about damaging the seals, but they seemed to be ok afterwards. Just remember to check for water intrusion after a ride or two. (unfortunatly, this requires pulling the pump completly off again)

willycrumb · 04-14-2005, 02:24 PM

If i might add my personal opinions not in racing conditions.

If your servicing your pump that often creator.....there is no need for locktite unless your threads are damaged in your mount plate from over tightening. Never used locktite and never had a bolt back out yet and thats 25 to 50 hours in between checking. I definetly go a lot lighter on the grease....its needed but skimp it as much as you can as it is in the water....less the better.

Good write up Creator.

the_fat_man · 05-10-2005, 08:12 AM

help needed

please look at the diagram attached

when i removed the stock impeller the collar was still attached to it

how do i remove this collar without damaging it??

thanks

05-10-2005, 10:44 AM

The collar is not pressed to the impeller or anything. A greased o-ring should be the only thing holding it in the impeller. You should be able to wiggle it out the back of the impeller by twisting it. Hope this helps.

creator · 05-10-2005, 12:41 PM

Ya, what he said. Just work it and it'll come out.

... AND, don't forget, there's a tiny o-ring that goes in the bottom of that collar. usually it hides down the shaft at the bearings. Make sure to gently pull it out (a small flathead screwdriver works well) and inspect / grease it.