1999 SLX 1050 lost power

Joatmon · 10-15-2009, 05:36 PM

Hi everyone-

I've had a 1999 SLX 1050 for the last 7 years and it ran great until last year. One morning on the lake it wouldn't start and I trouble shot it to a bad stator. The dealership told me they couldn't get me a replacement stator ordered and so I ended up installing a 'newer style' stator/cdi combo that is used on the early 2000 models. The problem now is that it has noticeably lost power. It starts and runs fine but it just doesn't have the same punch it used to. I'm thinking it's from a less advanced timing from the new stator/cdi.
The new cdi box has a serial connector coming out of it where as the OEM one did not. Does anyone know what the purpose of that serial connector is? Is there any way to change the timing? Any ideas?

One more-- this particular SLX will start out relatively quiet when cold, but after about 5-10 minutes of riding it bellows loud in the mid RPM range. It's always been this way. I've never seen or heard another SLX 1050 so I have nothing to compare it to. Any one else's do this?

Had snow here the last couple days so I'm getting the Polaris XLT ready to go. Hoping to get the SLX back to normal power for next spring

Joatmon

Keith447 · 10-21-2009, 12:26 PM

Exactly what year stator and CDI were installed?

Was a Polaris 'Ignition System Update Kit' installed, or just parts from a newer year engine?

The flywheels on some 2002-2004 models have different base timing than all the other domestic flywheels, and the CDI from those engines will run with retarded timing if used with the regular flywheel.

Regarding the sound getting louder, check the water injection into the exhaust manifold. It is a small diameter hose that runs from one spot on the ehaust manifold to another. One end has a mesh filter screen when you unscrew it, the other has a restirction orifice. Both must be clear, but do not enlarge the restriction hole.

If there is little or no water flow into the exhaust system, the water box will end up with no water inside, and that will make the exhaust sound louder.

Look for an aftermarket valve in-line with the exhaust water injection. Called a Jetworks valve, they are designed to limit water flow at low RPM, but automatically open to allow water flow into the exhaust when engine RPM rises. Over time, these valves often get sticky, and don't allow the water to flow when it should. If you have one, you can remove the valve and just connect the hose ends together to allow water to flow all the time.

Also check the large rubber hoses in the exhaust system, especially the U shaped hose, and the one between engine and waterbox. Look for soft areas or signs of heat. If the exhaust manifold water injection is not working properly, the rubber hoses can overheat and degrade internally.

If you aren't sure, take the large hoses off, and look inside for bumps or de-lamination. Replace any hoses that have been damaged or are soft.

Joatmon · 10-24-2009, 12:08 PM

Thanks for the reply!
I installed a PVL ignition system update kit P/N 2873356 which included a 4010170 stator and a 4010447 ignition controller. I'll probably check the timing and pull the flywheel cover back off and reindex it if it isn't at the OEM advance for 1999. I was hoping that I could do a PC hack into the CDI via the serial connection and address the issue there as it was a real bearcat changing the stator out thru the front because I didn't want to pull the motor. It reminded me of the old joke of the proctologist turned mechanic that got a 110% grade on his practical exam for rebuilding the engine 'thru the tailpipe'.
Great info on the noisy exhaust. When I first got the machine that's exactly what I did-- took the whole exhaust and plumbing apart as that was my suspicion too. No debris, orifice and screen clear, hoses in good condition and no aftermarket parts. Everything was clean as a whistle and like new. Been the same every year when I winterize the machine. Always hoping to find the 'aha!', but it all seems to check out.
Another question: What's the best intake grate to use on these PWC's to help keep the porpoising down without adding too much drag?
Thanks,
Joatmon

Keith447 · 10-25-2009, 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joatmon

...I was hoping that I could do a PC hack into the CDI via the serial connection and address the issue there...

Great info on the noisy exhaust. ...Always hoping to find the 'aha!', but it all seems to check out.

Another question: What's the best intake grate to use on these PWC's to help keep the porpoising down without adding too much drag?...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joatmon

... I've never seen or heard another SLX 1050 so I have nothing to compare it to. Any one else's do this?...

Re-programming the CDI is not easy to do. There are a very small number of people that have the equipment and software to do it.

You can check the timing with a timing light at 3,000RPM. The procedure is outlined in the service manual.

Looking for others with the same model Polaris PWC?
You need to click here.

The best options for reducing porpoising are to install a longer/aftermarket ride plate, install nozzle trim, or hull trim tabs. The ride plate approach is the most effective overall.