stop23

Had big trouble with my 03 GTX SC for the first time over the 4th of July. As it sits in my garage now, it won't start. I'm hoping someone here will be able to help point me toward a solution and away from unnecessary headaches.

The short story is, the starter turns the engine half a crank, then sounds like it's spinning without cranking the motor.

So far, I've done the following:

Tested the battery. The battery (replaced 1yr ago with a 30Ah AGM) checks good at 455 CCA on the load test. In the ski it measures 12.8V idle and 11.3 while cranking.
I jumped the relay with 12AWG wire, and it did the same thing...half crank then spinning.

I pulled the plugs tried cranking the engine. The starter cranks the engine without the plugs, but no water comes out. It wasn't sunk rolled or anything that would lead me to believe it's hydrolocked. Put the plugs back in, and it's back to square one.

I pulled the starter thinking the brushes might be bad. It looked brand new inside, and everything measured to spec. I tested the starter out of the ski, and it cranks hard. I tried several auto parts stores and a seadoo dealer, but no one can load test the starter. I don't think the starter is bad anyway.

I've got a few more ideas, but I'd like to hear a few more suggestions before I start really tearing things apart

Thanks in advance.

agreatho

Your headed in the right direction...starter and AMPs delivery to starter. I had this same thing happen on a two-stroke outboard. Lithium grease on the shaft that engages the starter gear with centrifical force to the flywheel did the trick.

There is a lube point recommended by mfg: http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....pe=13&A=97&B=4

riden420

I think u need to pull the pto cover off and replace the bendix. The starter turns a bendix wich kicks out to turn the motor, then retracts once the motor is started. Sounds like it jumps out, but cant hold.

D

stop23

I got the ring gear and starter drive out today. There is a little bit of wear on the ring gear and the bendix that engages with the ring gear. I expected to see a lot more wear, and now I'm not so sure this is the problem.

The gear on the end of the starter looks good. The big gear on the starter side of the starter drive looks good too. The counterweight and gear travels on the spline smoothly, and retracts with the spring. The gear spins freely w.r.t. the counterweight in the clockwise direction, and is locked w.r.t the counterweight in the counter-clockwise direction. The flange washer that holds the counterweight and gear on the shaft was jammed on the clip that holds it on the shaft, but I was able to free it so it slides on the shaft (I expect it is normal that it is pressed against the clip.

Does anyone know how else to test the starter drive? Before I install a new one? I'd hate to replace $500 worth of parts (ring gear and starter drive) and not fix the problem. Is there a clutch in the starter drive that could be slipping? If so, at what torque should it slip?

Any thoughts on why the starter would engage when the plugs are not in the block, but not engage when the cylinders are sealed? Could a stuck exhaust valve cause this problem? I'm trying to figure out how the starter could be spinning but not crank the engine.

stop23

Here's some pictures:

stop23

Excuse me while this newbie figures out how to post photos.

DarthRandal

Did you ever find out the problem?

__________________
2010 Kawasaki SXR 800
1990 Kawasaki SX 650
2003 SeaDoo GTX 185 Supercharged
2007 SeaDoo GTX Limited 215 Supercharged

stop23

It's been a while, but I believe the problem was ultimately a weak ground connection between the battery and the chassis. If you're having the same problem, take the ground wire off the front of the engine block and check for corrosion. Polish it up with some steel wool and use a little dielectric grease to keep it from corroding again.