02 sxipro

I've done a search and the consensus seems to be to stick with the kawasaki 10w-40 4 stroke watercraft oil. Okay, I get it. The problem is, no one within an hour of me carries the stuff (or the filter for that matter).

My question is, has anyone else found a good alternative to the Kawasaki stuff? I want to change the oil, and I feel like it shouldn't be this much of a PROJECT to do so. Ya know? I'd love it if I could just run to Wal-mart, get what I need and be on my way. I guess this wouldn't solve my filter problem, but I was just seeing if anyone uses some other (easier to find) oil.

The manual cals for the following:

Grade: API SF or SG
API SH, SJ or SL with JASO MA

I figure that some chain store has to carry a 10w-40 with ONE of these grades, wouldn't you think so?

Thanks in advance.

puckoach

Penzoil has a marine 10-40 that meets the specs.

t.zelazny

If you talk to Kawasaki customer service (I have), they will tell you that you do not need marine oil. Any 10W-40 that meets the grade in the manual will do.

puckoach

Please post the statement you got in writing, including the Kawi employees name.

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rotortiller

Open the owners manual and look if you want to see it in writing. Manufacturers cannot tell you what brand of oil to use only the specs. If that were the case we'd only be buying Exxon fuel! You guys have to give your heads a shake.

t.zelazny

I've done that by my post. I did not get the customer service rep's name. If you don't believe me, call the number yourself and see what they tell you.

rotortiller

It's already in writing in the owners manual on page 45 under the heading of general information. It's also under specifications in the same manual on page 13.m

Kawasaki specify an oil spec and not an oil brand. People need to know how to read and not be so fast to critise accurate information passed along by t.zelazny.
There is alot of BS profilerated by marketing officials using their own testing and charts at oil suppliers and manufacturers. It serves one purpose-sales. You have mineral and synthetic oils within the guidelines of the Kawasaki specs, and then you have pricing within these. Buy what you feel confortable with.

Personally I use automotive mineral as it is never in the engine long enough to justify the cost of synthetic(20 dollars verses 45). I have never found any moisture in my oil however marine oil will make claims that it is better under these conditions with its special super secret additive formula-likely it comes from the same tap as the non-marine version with the same spec. Guys blowing up 15F and Rotax engines have done so just as often using synthetic as mineral.

Feel confident in selecting any popular oil ( Castrol, Mobile1, Quakerstate, Vavoline etc) provided it is within the Kawasaki specifications.

RT

puckoach

Sorry, as much as you feel confident in your statements, your posts don't convince me.

This subject has been discussed many times on this site, and others. Posts with supporting sources have me convinced, Marine Oil for me.

800amsoil4u

I would look for a Marine 10w-40 oil that meets the NMMA FC-W and Kawasaki specificaitions. Like the factory oil or something like the AMSOIL 10w-40 Synthetic Marine Oil. http://www.amsoil.com/redirect.cgi?z...storefront/wcf

Marine engines operate under high loads and RPMs for extended periods of time, causing traditional automotive oils to break down and lose viscosity.
Marine engines are prone to rust, leading to uncontrolled wear and premature engine failure.

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rotortiller

Sounds like an advert .

PWC engines are made of aluminum where the water passes so it doesn't rust, it's called corrosion. 8 grand isn't very high compared to a motorcycle. PWCs don't have gear boxes and multi plate wet clutches to deal with. PWCs don't have to deal with dirty dusty salty wet road conditions or cold winter starts. Seadoo and Kawasaki designed and built the machine so they know the metals, design and quality are required for decent lubrication protection and make recommendations based upon those facts. Oil salesmen however do not.

Most of the rust on a PWC marine engine happens externally and only TLC will control that aspect. Cars drive in the rain and run through dirty gravel soaked puddles. The water temperature coming out the back side of your jet ski is much cooler than the stuff in the automotive cooling system, this is because of the unlimited supply of cold water. Lower water temperatures, water cooled exhaust, and an oil cooler really give the PWC engine oil system the edge over a typical 4 cylinder automobile. The engine does not see the shock loads or torque spikes that a solid connection to the road will when the clutch is popped or the wheels spin and grab or when you gear down. I run automotive oil and after 20 hours it still looks like the day it came out of the jug. There is no metal in the oil or the fliter during oil changes, if the wear were 'uncontrolled' surely this would not be the case..

Look at a 5 year old car and then look at a typical 5 year old PWC for condition, look at the rust, think about the hours operation and projected lifespan. PWC users take care f their toys now the reliable vehicle towing it likely is treated like crap.

If you dump your PWC upside down and swallow salt water no oil brand is going to help it.....wait a second it's marine oil. If wear were uncontrolled my engine would be toast by now, what a crock they sold on that copy and paste! Remember gentlemen the world runs on over 50% BS

[quote]Marine engines operate under high loads and RPMs for extended periods of time, causing traditional automotive oils to break down and lose viscosity.
Marine engines are prone to rust, leading to uncontrolled wear and premature engine failure. {/quote]
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