craigss11

Got my new 2010 Ultra 260 3 weeks ago,it's all run in and ready for some mods. now LOL
Got my ride plate,wedge,intake I kept from my 250 to swap over and a new Riva waterbox and exhaust to fit,these should make it run OK LOL

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2010 U;tra 260X
It's RED it must be fast

SxiPro

It's funny, in those colors it looks like a Yami. Not that that is a bad thing. Sweet looking ride. How does it compare speedwise to the 250?

kawiski

I don't know how many hours of riding you put on your ski, but I would make sure ALL cooling AND exhaust hose clamps are correctly installed and TIGHT. The rubber hose takes a set and the clamps lose their original tightness.

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Most ski problems are caused by the loose NUT connecting the handle bar to the seat.

RumRunner_1492

I know this is going to sound like a stupid question but what exactly does a ride plate do? Is it worth replacing the stock one for an aftermarket one?

craigss11

This is the 7th 4 stroke Kawasaki I've had since 2003,I've seen every possible senario Kawasaki has been able to throw at me,from loose clamps from the factory on the original 12F,to the useless pressure hoses on the 04 15F[the ones that split at every bend and were replaced under a recall],to the useless clamps on the 06 LOL LOl
So don't worry I checked every hose,clamp,nut and bolt on this ski before it ever hit the water and again after I finished running it in.
Luckily I've been a mechanic for 38 years and been running my own shop for 25 years so I have a fair knowledge of the pitfalls of these things
Cheers

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2010 U;tra 260X
It's RED it must be fast

craigss11

Different ride plates give the ski more top end,or more ability to turn sharper ie grip in the rear
Cheers

__________________
2010 U;tra 260X
It's RED it must be fast

craigss11

The ski has a better mid range response on the throttle,top end isn't much different to my 250 with the mods it ran
Runs 119 kph/74 mph with 1/2 tank of fuel on Garmin GPS,the "Dreamometer" is the usual piece of junk,it tops out at 112 kph
Cheers

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2010 U;tra 260X
It's RED it must be fast

kawiski

Have you changed out the junk factory "water-resistant" black grease to true water-proof grease? Your jet pump will really appreciate it.

At the same time, make sure the pump bearings have been walking out or not. If yes, check, replace if worn and lock them down with locking agent or some sort.

Also, treat the ISC steopper motor air passage with WD-40 or similar lubricant to prevent corrosion if your riding is mainly in ocean.

Oh, also do the SC lube fitting mod so your blower don't lock up during storage time.

There are bunch of things you shoud do to make your ski last longer BEFORE making it go faster.

__________________
Most ski problems are caused by the loose NUT connecting the handle bar to the seat.

craigss11

Had the pump out and stripped prior to it ever being started,removed the bearings and the shaft,replaced the shaft with a modded one from Dave at Impros,and replaced all the grease in ALL the bearing with waterproof marine grease.
And added a small quantity of gear oil to the void in the pump to assist with lubrication.
The whole engine etc is coated in Lanotec,a waterproofing and lubricant we get here in Oz.
The s/c has also been drained and refilled with synthetic s/c oil.
Not that my skis ever get storage time,we ride most weeks 12 months a year.
My 15F's had between 120-260 hrs on them when I sell them and that's in a 12month to 2 year period.
The pump issues are something I had experience with on my 250,2 pumps in 36hrs,wasn't impressed with the dealer,supposed to have fixed the second pump under warranty,but didn't do much of a job.
If all goes to plan this one will only be with me till Xmas and we'll start looking at another
Cheers

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2010 U;tra 260X
It's RED it must be fast

kawiski

Is that the one with a nut in the back of the shaft?
I wonder what would happen if the rear bearing outer casing fails, because that's where the nut would be pressing against when the front bearing(s) give out.

Have you replaced the two front ball bearings (new on 2010 model) with an aftermarket tapered bearing or anything? Two (wrong) bearings are better than one, but that's just a bandaid. Ball bearings are not the right type where the thurst or axial force is the issue on jetpump shaft. Double-row single bearing or tapered bearing is the way to go. I just can't seem to find the right size for the '10 260 pump. If anyone finds one, post it!

__________________
Most ski problems are caused by the loose NUT connecting the handle bar to the seat.