WB1 factory B pipe problems.

Rainer · 01-25-2010, 11:04 PM

Hi there, my factory B pipe on my WB1 is rubbing against the body, I tried engine spacers, I tried to reposition the exhaust manifold. Nothing works.

Also, I was stupid enough to trust someone else to work on my ski, big mistake! On the exhaust manifold (the thing that looks like a huge C) there are 3 water flow screws, the bottom screw is turned in all the way, I don't think that is right, please correct me if I am wrong.

Is it OK if the exhaust gets warm? With my old setup the exhaust was cool all the time.

Any tips?

MikePeavler · 01-25-2010, 11:14 PM

1. The blasters are hand laid and sometimes they rub slightly until they "clearance" themselves...how bad is it rubbing?
2. Cold pipes make less power....it should be just hot enough to slightly sizzle at the headpipe/chamber....
3. I run mine closed on top and middle and the bottom at 1/2 turn open...

Sounds fine to me .

Rainer · 01-26-2010, 12:01 AM

I hooked it up to my garden hose, the bottom hole sprays almost nothing, I tried to to open it, the screw is stuck because some idiot that worked on my ski closed it with force. the top wholes sprays nicely.
The rubbing is bad if you don't position the engine all the way to the other side. It still rubs but not that badly.

Can it hurt my engine in any way if it runs to dry or wet? I know a guy that claims that it will, I think he messed it up in the first place.

bigrayq · 01-26-2010, 12:45 AM

if you go to the factory pipe website you will see that it tells you to have the top and middle screws closed all the way and the bottom screw half to 3/4 turn open for maximum high speed performance. the top and middle are more for low end and midrange power. If your happy with the power band, then it sounds like you have more than enough cooling so dont worry about that at all. can't help you with the rubbing

Rainer · 01-26-2010, 12:57 AM

What is the factory b pipe
website?

JonnyX2 · 01-26-2010, 01:07 AM

The part of the pipe that looks like a big C is called the Headpipe. The Manifold is the part that is bolted to the engine (between the engine and the headpipe) The biggest part of the pipe is the Chamber, also called an Expansion Chamber

The website for the manufacturer of your pipe is http://www.factorypipe.com/

Running your pipe too wet will lower peak rpms. Too dry and you can overheat and melt down the waterbox, ex tubes etc. As stated before you can get the tuning tips at the Factory Pipe website.

If the rubbing is bad, remove the chamber and use a mallet to "dent" the chamber so it does not rub. This will not affect performance as long as you dont go crazy....dent just enough to clear the hull.....

Hope that helps!

Rainer · 01-26-2010, 01:30 AM

It is the Headpipe that is rubbing.

JonnyX2 · 01-26-2010, 01:41 AM

Grinder

I kid, I kid....Ok, I am at a loss....I had a blaster once with that pipe and it seems to me it rubbed on mine too. But see, I am reformed now and a hard core Kawasaki guy, so I probably shouldnt be giving advice in here anyway

faster7581 · 01-26-2010, 10:46 AM

my head pipe has about 2" clearence between the hull... how could yours be so close??

Scottie Mac · 01-26-2010, 12:29 PM

The Blaster hulls have a HUGE amount of variance in the space between the head pipe and hull. We have 6 blasters between myself and Joe and some require a lot of grinding to get the headpipe to clear, so clear no problem. It is quite frigging annoying to be honest. I had to grind one of mine down to the point where I could flex the top deck with my finger to get it to clear.

You don't want to run the motor pushed all the way to one side because it is going to throw off the alignment of your intermediate shaft to motor. If you run it like this, you run the risk of eating driveshafts, and they aren't cheap. Get an angled grinder with a wheel and grind away a little at a time until you get the clearance you need. You don't need a lot, just enough to clear the hull.

Hope this helps,
Scottie